00- Complete Car

• Spark plug socket
• Wheels etc.
• Ronal
• Nizam's wheels
• Speedlines
• Wheel sources
• Cats
• Tire options
• 225 or not
• Timing belt change
• Wheel bolt pattern
• ES30 wheels
• Shankle header tips
• Exhaust nuts
• AZEV wheels
• checking cat
  

> the best plug socket wrench for an alfa v6 is the one that comes with the
v6
> tool kit - fits in every plug hole with no problem.  i may have one lying
> >
>
> was a tool kit supplied with the GTV6?

yup.  i've seen plastic pouches and plastic boxes, all have the spark plug
wrench in them.  ape must have a million of these things lying around.

bs
----also see -05 for a little more on plugs. ED.

 Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 00:38:43 -0700
From: Marines <zzambri@scudc.scu.edu>
Subject: Milano Wheels

Hi Phil,

    For 15" wheels I would recommend the Yokohama AVSi 205/50/15 at $77 a
piece (tirerack). This IMHO is the best street tire for the money. I have
used
205/55/15 BF Goodrich Comp T/A ZR before and they are quite comfortable.
But they really suck on the track. Right now I have 205/50/16 Falken
GR-Beta RS
Tune on my Milano Gold. It rubs a little (Verde skirts). But it clears the
wheel well. Not as comfy but look great. It slides real nice but do not
squeal
like those %&^$^$!!! BF Goodrichs.
    I would suggest the following wheels: Team Dynamics, Tecnomagnesio (6
spoke at discount tire) or the 156 wheels Alfa Bill is selling. You know my
16"
wheel + tire combo weighs the same as the Verde phone dial wheels with
195/55 tires.
    The Zender Milano wheels should be available in shops located a few
thousand miles away from you ;-). When I was in Singapore I saw a set for a
145 (4
lug). they also have it for the 5 lug Alfas. Cost? about US$350 each. Ouch!
A cheap substitute would be the 16" SPEEDLINE on the 164 Quadrifoglio/Q4.
They
look like the OZ wheels but are actually 1 piece. Just like the ones on my
155 V6. our good 'ol Alfa Bill may be able to help you in getting those
wheels..

Hope I helped.

Zamani

Gary Allison
Ronal Wheels USA
ronalusa@ronalusa.com
(800) 899-1212 x108
-----Original Message-----
From: Wendy Wood & Carson Damm <dammwood@incentre.net>
To: ronalusa@ronalusa.com <ronalusa@ronalusa.com>
Date: Monday, June 07, 1999 10:19 AM
Subject: some wheels

>I would like to know if the Centra T-27 is available for my car. An '87
>Alfa Romeo Milano in 16 by 7 with 5/98 stud and a 33-35 mm offset. I know
>it is a shot in the dark but they look like good wheels. Thanks.
>
>Carson Damm

Hi guys,

Don't bother getting Nitto NT-505's.  Those are the bargain basement
low/no-profile tires.  Just for show
but no go.  (or rather, WILL let go when pushed)  I've got a friend, er,
rice boy friend, who had 17"
NT-505's on his tricked-out Acura Integra.  He swears he had more traction
before the NT-505 and now that
he's moved to Falken GR-B's.
I have 16" wheels on my Milano, 30mm offset, 5x98mm bolt pattern, see
http://www.nizam.com/alfa75project.html.  It was $150 per wheel without the
tires.
I recommend Falken GR-B's, although I'll be switching to Dunlop SP-8000's
once this set wears down to
gain greater comfort.
Just my two cents.
Nizam

Jim,

The shop I use in Livingston, NJ imports the 16" ES30 wheels, now done
by speedline- I think the originals were OZ Racing. They look awesome on
a GTV6.

EuroTec can be reached art 973-992-2800. Top notch mechanics too!

dave s.

Subject:wheel stuff
   Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 15:03:16 -0700
   From: Carson Damm <dammwood@incentre.net>
     To: PeteLaurel@aol.com
Here is a bunch of wheel stuff I was digging up for my 75. I
particularly liked the Mille Miglia MM11 plus but was too hard to get
over here. All of these manufacturers make a 5x98 pattern. I eventually
settled on the Fondmetal 5800.
Happy hunting

http://www.usacomp.com/
http://www.millemigliawheels.it/en/start.htm
http://www.fondmetal.com/english/index.htm
http://www.fondmetal.de/fondmetal.htm has a fitment guide
http://www.momo.it/ing/index.html
http://www.ronalusa.com/
http://www.contatto.it/stilauto/main_eng.htm
http://www.mmrusa.com/teamdynamics.htm
http://www.aez-usa.com/Default.htm has a fitment guide
http://www.azev.com/world/world.htm

Carson Damm
Ft. McMurray, AB
Canada

87 Plat
77 Spider.

Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1999 13:01:22 +0000
From: "Ivan Link" <ivan@waverider.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Subject: 5x98mm + 0.02 worth of air

>In the UK Revolution wheels were available as an
>option on Alfa's for a few years in 14" and 15" sizes,
>and I think 6" wide.

Revolution were / are part of the same group as Wolfrace, who I
think still makes alloy wheels in the UK. The Revolution design that
was a UK option on the 75 & 33 was know as the RSX. The design has
been passed to a company called Re-Auto International, who are based
in London (UK)

They manufacture their wheels to order. They drill any whole
pattern / cut the offset required, and supply either unfinished, or in
a range of 4 or so colours. They can also supply lighter, hardened
wheels for motorsport use. The reason I know is that I brought a set
of 4 from them 2 years ago. Delivery took a while, but price was OK.
(I have a set of  race spec 7x15, no spacers, no offset problems)
 

Discount Converters shows a catalytic converter for an "86-88 GTV6" on
their web page:
 http://www.discountconverter.com
Of course the salesman didn't know what car this was really for, so I took
a chance and
ordered one for my '87 Milano. At only $165, it was hard to pass up. The
fit was a little
off, but overall, I was pleased with the product. I had to make two
modifications:
- - the input pipes were about 1/4 inch too close together. I used a jack
to spread them
- - the connector flange to the header had bolt holes which were too far
apart. I had to file
  the inside to allow the header bolts to fit
With these changes, the converter fit fine. A couple cons vs. the stock
unit:
- - the input pipe is not offset to the side to allow access to the front
donut
- - there is no hangar connection to the rear engine mount. It depends on
the hangars for the
  center muffler.
And the Pros:
- - The unit is significantly lighter than stock
- - The O2 sensor is easier to access
- - bargain price
My car definitely now has a "openned up" sound. Also feels a little
stronger.
- --
Colin Verrilli           <verrilli@vnet.ibm.com>        IBM Raleigh, NC

Hi Carson,

According to my Zender '94 catalogue (the last where the Alfa75 (Milano in
the US) appeared) it shows the following specs:

Alfa 75 1,6 / 1,8 / 2,0 (4 Cylinder)
7x15    ET30    recommended tyres 205/50, 205/55, 215/50

Alfa 75 2,5 (6 Cylinder) / 1,8 Turbo / TS 2,0 / V6 3,0
7x15    ET35    recommended tyres 195/50, 205/50, 205/55, 195/60, 215/50
7x15    ET25    recommended tyres 195/50, 205/50, 205/55, 215/50, 225/50

The Offset (ET) of 28 is within the range and should be OK even with the
widest tyre allowed. But if you actually get some rubbing with the
suspension some 3mm aluminium spacers should do the trick with no need of
longer bolts.
Hope this helps.
Stanley Yep
Alfa 146 1.7L 16V (17" Zender Milano w/ Yoko's AVS 215/40ZR17)

        ANDREWG 

Carson Damm wrote:
> 
> 225/50/15 will not work on a street milano, just went through this about
> a month ago. Had to settle with 205/55/15.
> --
> Carson Damm

Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 22:58:49 EDT
From: AlfaNeely@aol.com
Subject: Re: alfa-digest V7 #1637 - Milano Water Pump

    The Milano water pump is not that hard.  I did mine the other weekend in 
an afternoon. 
    Bring everything up to the respective timing marks and make sure that 
they are still there when you get it back together.  There is no need to 
retime everything if you do not turn the engine or anything while it is 
apart.  For ease of reference, I paint all the timing marks with yellow or 
white paint.
    The timing marks of the cams are on the plastic removable covers and they 
are not at twelve o'clock.  More like 1 o'clock for the passenger side cam 
and 11 for the driver side.  Sort of silly to have timing marks on the covers 
where you cannot use them when the covers are removed.  The distributor drive 
does not have to be removed.

    You have to take off the timing belt tensioner to get to one of the water 
pump bolts.  Getting the tension set back is not a problem.  Just align the 
marks and tighten the bolts.  A 3/8 inch socket fits the square hole in the 
tensioner nicely.  Get a book if you do not know how to align the marks on 
the tensioner.  Basically, there is an arrow that you aim at a mark on the 
tensioner.  Do not put too much tension on the socket extension as I broke my 
mechanical tensioner the previous time I did the water pump.
    After the timing belt is back in place and tensioned, put the car in 
third or fourth gear and roll it ahead a few revolutions.  Make sure the 
tensioner is still on its marks and all the other timing marks are where they 
should be.  Then put the timing covers, belts and everything else back on.
    You do have to remove all the belts, so just as well replace them at the 
same time.  And maybe replace the hoses too.
Ciao,
Russ Neely
Oklahoma City
--see also water pump change in -07, ED.

Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 22:25:38 EDT
From: RBoniface@aol.com
Subject: gtv6 bolt pattern

The GTV6 bolt pattern is 5x 98mm with a 56.1 mm center bore.

Bob Boniface

Vlad wrote:

> I went in search of part number for the
> wheels.Sure enough , there was none.Maybe a Zagato part?
> Then the SZ is not factory legit? I think it is.
>

AFRA lists these specs and part numbers for th SZ Wheels.

FRONT
7j x 16 (5 fori)
7 mm
Alfa Coupè Sz
60555280

REAR
8j x 16 (5 fori)
20 mm
Alfa Coupè Sz
60555279

My recollection is that these wheels were OZ Racing wheels. Whether this
is
an AFRA part number or an Alfa part number I am not sure. It seems to
follow
the same numbering convention as all of the other wheels they have
listed,
many of which are standard production Alfa wheels from much more common
cars.

Unfortunately, I sold my excellent book on the SZ Zagato a few months
ago on
eBay in a fit of simplifying...
 

AlfaCentro, Your Online Alfa Romeo Community
http://www.AlfaCentro.com, keyword: AlfaCentro

- -------------------------------------------
Joe Cabibbo

Finally got the headers on the Verde back together, I had taken it apart
last winter to fix a nagging exhaust leak.  The car has a Shankle header
system, and if anyone has worked with this before you know how difficult
it can be to put together, particularly the header to downpipe connection. I got a couple of tips along the way and since the final reassembly was so easy I thought I'd post the results. When I took things apart last winter it was obvious where the leaks were coming from.  The flanges were distorted (even though they're 1/4" thick!), and the gaskets were all deformed.  In addition, the tubing was collapsing
internally, which would also restrict the flow.

I had Paul Glynn reinforce all the welds between all of the tubing and
flanges on both the headers and the down pipes.  Then, using a tip I got
from Don Happel (anybody seen Don lately - I owe him a lunch for this
one), Paul welded the bolts to the headers.  The worst part of this job is bolting the headers up to the down pipes, this is a two person job and access from the top is very, very poor.  Welding the bolts to the headers allows you to connect up the down pipes from below, and turns it into a one person job. The second tip I got from Paul - he gave me some nuts that fit into a 12mm socket (as opposed to the normal 13mm).  These nuts were slightly oval at the threads, eliminating the need for a lock washer, plus they had hats on them, which meant that you could stick them into a socket, then using an extension you could get them up onto the nuts (welded from above!) without having to worry about the nut sliding into the socket, or about loosing lock washers.
This part of the job used to take myself and one other a couple of hours
and a lot of cursing.  Using the above it was roughly a 15 minute process, and not a single curse.
As an aside, I had the headers and down pipes coated, hopefully this
will reduce engine bay temps and lengthen the life span of the ABS.
I still need to install the rest of the exhaust system and free up a
stuck rear caliper before I can test drive, but the above was so useful I thought I'd post it right away.
Later,

bs

        The best replacements I've seen come from Wurth.
        They are steel locking nuts with a heavy copper plating.
        The plating is thick enough that they won't corrode for
        a long time, and have a 12mm hex that provides a little
        more room for a wrench when installing them.  I still
        use antiseize compound on installation.

        Most foreign car repair shops buy fasteners and
        chemicals from their Wurth representative.  The part
        number is VK 14441 SW12, and of course the thread
        size is M8 x 1.  You may have to make a few calls to
        find them.  In Chicago, call Besic Motorsports.  I don't
        know if they are in stock, but he can get them.

        Jim Steck

Hi all!

This just to let you know, that I have spent (a lot of) time 
investigating, which wheel-combination is the best for the Alfa 75. 
This of course, since I plan to acquire some for one of my own. 

There has been a lot of confusion as to the ET (offset) of the 
wheels, especially when compared to the diameter of the wheel. I have 
received a lot of good advise from a lot of you this regard.

However, have found out, that Azev actually specially manufactures 
some alloys designed for the Alfa 75. These wheels are only available 
on request - although they are not that expensive.

For the Alfa 75 with 5 nuts here are some examples:

7½J * 16H2, ET25 Azev type A (#44252) and E (#444252)
7½J * 17H2, ET25 Azev type A (#54304)
8J * 17H2, ET30 Azev type A (#55301) and K (#855301)

For full list, you might check 
http://www.azev.com/fzliste/eint_e/alfa-e.htm

I am now going for the 8J * 17H2, type A. Will let you guys know of 
any experience this regard.

Kasper

'87 1,8 Turbo
'91 3,0 QV