15-17- Trans, diff and axle shafts

• 2nd syncro recap
• Trans bearing upgrade
• Auto fluid check
• Shifter stiff?
• Shifter rattle
• Stubborn shifter
• Trans rebuild
• Auto equiped cars
• Auto shifting
• High speed whine
• Different shafts and LSD
• Bearings and shims
• more whining
• Which TA w/LSD
• Shifter rattles in 2nd, 4th
• ZF places in NA
• CV boot change
• Diff ratio's
• non-LSD>LSD conv.

Have fun and good luck
Scott Swanberg
-----------------

Well, I just finished replacing my 2nd gear syncro and the clutch in my
'87 Milano Platinum.  Of course, I learned a few lessons, here is a
recap.

I used my GTV6/Milano manual, Collin Verrilli's article, "Alfa Romeo
Owner's Bible," by Pat Braden, and various digest postings as my
references.  All went fairly smoothly and as always, I want to thank all
who answered my questions, before and during the procedure.

I've unhooked the driveshaft and lowered the front of the transaxle now
four times.  I can do this portion of the job on cruise control, no
problems.  When it comes to the exhaust system I don't completely remove
everything.  This is because I have not been able to readily get the
flanges on the front section to clear between the sump and the frame.  I
just separate the rear section from the middle section and the front
section from the manifolds, unhook all hangers and let the front and
middle sections pivot down.  This gives me enough room to do everything.

Once the transaxle is nose down, I disconnect the whole slave cylinder
bracket and let it hang.  I've tried using a "C" clamp previously to
hold the piston in place only to have it be knocked off and eject the
piston and all the fluid.  I didn't want to mess with bleeding
everything again so I made use of my father-in-laws machine shop and
made up a clamp that is basically a cap held in place with set screws
into the cylinders boot groove.

The Milano gear selector shaft has a fitting pressed on to the end and
held on with a split pin.  Pound long enough on the split pin with a
correctly sized punch, and it will come out.  (I was later cautioned
that to much pounding can bend the shaft.  Support it on the opposite
side.)  Pulling the fitting off the selector shaft is another story.  I
fabricated a puller that removes it easily.  When reinstalling the
fitting, heat it up with a propane torch and it will slide right on.

When removing the clutch I leave the DeDion cross member on and in the
lowered position, passing the clutch between the cross member and the
car's underside.  When removing the transmission front cover I returned
the cross member to it's upright position and lower the transaxle under
it.

Taking the gear cluster apart was no problem.  I used a 36mm, 2 1/4 inch
deep socket that I got for $6.00 from the local El cheapo tool store
that worked fine.

>From what I can tell from my manual, the Milano 1st. gear syncro is
different than that on  the GTV6.  The Milano has a an additional strap
and a coil spring.  On the part of the first gear that the syncro sleeve
engages and that the syncro snap ring clamps on, I had a part broken
off.  This was the a small portion of the piece that the snap ring
attaches to.  Turns out that even though this syncro engagement part of
the first gear easily is removed from the first gear, you have to
purchase the entire first gear to get a new one.  Me being cheap, I
scoffed at the $160 for a new first gear and I brazed the broken part
back on.  The resulting fix seemed strong.

While installing the new clutch, at first it would not slide all the way
on the mainshaft.  I've experienced this on other cars and after
inspecting it discovered that the pressure plate was not centered in the
clutch.  I disassembled the clutch, centered the plate by eye, and
reassembled it.  After this it slid right on.

The new clutch really grabs.  I'm occasionally spinning the wheels on
the sanded streets getting used to it.  I imagine that after a few
hundred miles it won't be so grabby.  The second gear syncro works
great, easily up and down shifting without any grinding.  The ring I
removed showed wear on the inside from the small segment and on the
outside from the engagement part of the 2nd gear.  The teeth on the
sleeve were rounded off a lot.

All I replaced was the 2nd gear syncro ring and 1st - 2nd syncro
sleeve.  After seeing what a difference this made on my 2nd gear I wish
I would have replaced all the rings.  I recommend doing this.

Scott Swanberg, St. Paul, MN
'87 Milano

Robert,
I assume you refer to the bearings in the central housing.  If so the
bearing changed on all the trans's.  Old stile bearings can be used in
new stile cases and vice a versa if you also change the steel retaining
plate.  Old stile plate has a recess to compensate for the thicker
bearing.  I have done this on my Milano and countless customers cars.

Chris

    Mike wrote:
   "Anyone know how to check the automatic trans fluid level.........?"
An easy to check the level,assuming the system is still working,is to flip 
the trans level test switch located top/left of the "Alfa Check Control" on
the dash.The little light should be lit.If not, the level is low or the
test system doesn't work.
 To be sure,you should raise the car,preferably on a hoist and with it hot 
and running remove the 6mm (10mm head)bolt located next to the trans oil
pan in that cylinder-looking aluminum housing with a wire hopefully attached to 
the top of it.With the car as level as possible,you should see fluid 
trickling out.If not,the level is low.Filling the trans is even more 
fun........Remove the wire & rubber boot from the top of the housing.With a
22mm or 7/8th's wrench,carefully remove level sender unit from housing and 
add fluid from the top of the housing.An easy(?) way to add fluid is to 
remove the R/R wheel and with a funnel & 3 foot length of hose keeping the 
funnel higher than the inlet.When fluid leaks out the level hole,you,refull. 
Of course you,re working right next to the hot exhaust the whole 
time........Also plan on making a mess........
            Hope this helps.....
            Mike Besic

<< From: schuga@mindspring.com
 Subject: Milano Shifting

 Hi all!

 I have some questions regarding the shifting of a '87 Milano.  For some
 reason, the shifting of my Milano is very laborious and hard.  It takes
 some effort to find the gears and does not shift smoothly like my
 father's GTV-6.  Once the gear is located, I have no problem engaging
 the gear.  Seems like the shifting mechanism is binding somewhere.  >>

It is most likely the piece at the transmission end of the long rod that runs 
from the shift lever in the interior.  This piece is a tube with a lever on
it.  It fits over a section of the long rod.  There are two plastic sleeves
that separate the two parts and originally some grease.  The short section 
with the lever is supposed to rotate on the long rod, but when dirt replaces 
the grease  ... it stops turning freely.  The short section is held onto the 
long rod by a pin that runs throughout cross wise .... not easy to push out.
The two plastic piece were about 25 cents each a couple of years ago from 
Alfa.

I put a grease nipple on it when I put it back together.  The spot of
grease 
once a year keeps it working nicely.

Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 05:13:45 PDT
From: "john mckaig" <mckaig750@hotmail.com>
Subject: Milano seat fabric & shifters

The Recaro seat fabric is 'Monza'.  I had ordered seat bottoms from Automat
on Long Island a few years ago.  If you want their # call 1-800 info, they 
should have it.
To all late V6 & Milano owners with the 'monkey link' shifter 
mechanism.....If you shifter has more than a little slop REPLACE all the 
bushings, joints, & levers under the car.  The parts cost $50-$70.  Use a 
good quality waterproof grease (do not use anti-seize) and enjoy goodness 
every day!  The shifter becomes nice and precise.  I can't tell you enough 
how good this is, and since you shift all the time you'll REALLY love it. 
I can't for the life of me figure what the road testers of the time
complained 
about.

Now no one can complain about bad shifters!!!!!!!  RIGHT.!?

Have a FANTASTIC day.
CJ

Cheers,
Mikko
Alfa 75 TS -90  134000km
http://reality.sgi.com/sikand_mti/milano.html   -rattling shifter

http://www.clanger9.demon.co.uk/alfa/           -repairing 75 ts

http://elektron.et.tudelft.nl/~jebe/home.htm    -project 75 3.0 v6

Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 21:14:37 EST
From: Aibrucia@aol.com
Subject: Milano Shifter

Below is a shortcut to a great article on the Milano shifter. 
 <A HREF="http://reality.sgi.com/sikand_mti/milano.html">Click here: The
Alfa 
75 / Milano Resource</A>

I assume you can undo the bolt at the base of the shifter and then take it 
apart.  The article says to make a puller to remove the old bushing.  Mine 
was so siezed, I found I had to unbolt the shifter and it housing as one. 
To 
do this, remove the knob and undo 3 bolts from below.  Then, the whole 
shifter and its housing will drop into your hand.  Then , I simply drilled 
out the old bushing, fitted a new one and reassemled. 

E mail me if you need more info. 

Tony Brucia
Long Island, NY 

As a Milano autobox owner I just wanna clear up a point; you don't need 
to switch PS pumps when removing the self leveling system. All one needs 
to do, if removing (or having removed) the self leveling, is join the 
feed and return lines in the rear that used to feed the leveling
resevoir 
with a length of fuel infection hose. Thats what I did, and things are 
dandy. Also, checking the fluid level is as easy as it gets: just flick 
the switch on the "ARC" and look for a light. If it lights up-->good, if 
it doesn't, then yoiu are low on fluid. I've changed mine a couple of 
times and its not all that bad, but it can be messy.

Regards,

Adam

Zamani,

I was having some problems with the shifting on my automatic Milano and was
this close to replacing the transmission.  I had already tried changing the
fluid with only marginal improvement.  Paul at DiFatta Bros. told me before
I spring for a new transmission, try dropping the pan on the transmission
and remove the screen filter and clean it.  It was easy to do.  There are
about 10 bolts holding the screen in place.  It didn't look that dirty, but
I sprayed it with brake cleaner and put it back in.  Now my transmission
shifts like brand new again.  Give it a try and let me know if it helps.

Michael Conrey
Myersville, MD

Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 17:19:25 -0400
From: Keith Walker <100662.3423@compuserve.com>
Subject: 75/Milano automatic

Zamani

>> I think the PO had his mechanic re-route the PS pump for
the rear shocks (a loop). But it seems to shift to 2nd a little too
quickly. <<

Ours also liked to change up early. It may just need the kickdown
cable adjusting (and it amost certainly needs that cable lubricating!).
 

Keith

Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 09:34:17 -0500
From: rcess@notes.cc.sunysb.edu
Subject: Milano automatic transmission question

Gavin,

With respect to your '88 Milano with automatic transmission, the reason
the
gear selector is difficult to move is because the cable to the
transmission
is sticking in its sheath.  You need to remove the cable/sheath
assembly,
clean and lubricate, and reinstall.  The situation will rapidly get
worse,
and DO NOT use brute force to move the gear selector.  If you do, you
will
kink the sheath and the entire unit will need to be replaced.

Bob Cess

>My gtv6 has developed a medium intensity (but still pretty annoying
after a while) whine coming from somewhere in the driveline (driveshaft
or transaxle) when I accelerate.  It's mostly audible in speeds between
55 and 75mph, and tapers off after 80mph or so.  As soon as I lift off
my foot from the accelerator, it stops completely.  When I press the
accelerator, even lightly, it starts again.<

I once had a Milano in my shop with a problem as you describe. Turned out to
be that the race for the pinion bearing in the transaxle was turning in the
aluminum housing. We only found it after going through everything else in
the driveline, and when that turned up nothing, we ripped the transaxle
open and found the problem.

I'm not saying that this is your problem, and I personally have not
heard that this is common in these cars, but it is a possibility.

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 08:47:38 -0500
From: Andrew Garcia <aggarcia@swbell.net>
Subject: whining gtv6 driveline

        My guess would be a worn pinion shim. You will most likely have to
dissemble the transaxle to find the problem.

        ANDREWG
        Houston, Tx
        #63 ITS GTV6

     Subject: LSD transaxle and Mil/GTV6 halfshats 
     From: Andrew Garcia <aggarcia@swbell.net> 
     Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 10:36:59 -0600 

    The only way to tell which axle ratio and/or if there is a LSD is to
pull the side cover on the transaxle case that secures the diff. Stamped
on the ring gear will be a number like 10/41. This identified as 4.10
axle ratio. The LSD can be identified by the six or eight bolts holding
the end plate to the diff  unit ( to get at the clutch discs).

    There is a difference in axle shaft between a GTV6 and a Milano. if
you look at the "spacer" between the brake disc and the axle shaft, they
are different for each car. The GTV6 used regular bolts and the Milano
uses allen bolts. The Milano spacers are shorter, hence a longer axle
shaft. I was told this was done to give the Milano when weighted down
more suspension travel. To use a Milano transaxle use change the spacers
to the GTV6 style and you are in business. What all of these questions
on putting a Plat.

LSD into a GTV6 are you having the LSD unit rebuilt or leaving it stock.
Most LSD unit I have seen are worn out because the lock is so low that
the friction discs slip to much quickly wearing them away. Ereminas
Imports will rebuilt your LSD with 50% lock for about $200 depending if
everything else is ok. After two years of competition use my LSd is
still working like new. Good Luck.

            ANDREWG
            Houston, Tx
            #63 ITS

The transmission of my 86 gtv6 has been on my mechanic's bench for a few
weeks now.  It badly needed new bearings for both the input and the
pinion shafts (these are the bearings at the center plate).  We finally
got the bearings but to our surprise, upon disassembly we found that
both shafts had two bearings, stacked on top of each other instead of a
single one that the parts manual suggests.  On the pinion shaft, the two
bearings add up to the thickess of the single replacement one so that's
not a big issue.  However, the two bearings on the input shaft are about
1mm thicker than the replacement bearing. The new one would fit
perfectly if only the cover plate that keeps the bearings in place
didn't have a circular groove right where the outer bearing surface
comes in contact with it.

Has anybody experienced that before?  Any suggestions on where to go
from here?  Also, the bad bearings caused the pinion shaft to move back
and forth and eventually ground the first spacer very thin.  How would
we go about finding what that spacer thickness should be?

Thanks a lot,
Vangelis

> Vangelis,
>
>   I have fixed several gearboxes with this problem successfuly.  On each
> occasion I was able to measure the shim at the inner diameter, just make
> sure your not measuring any 'flashing' or a sharp edge.  I have heard that
> the shims were improperly hardened or the shafts were torqued improperly
> from new.
>   If the shim was really pounded, check the reverse gears VERY carefully as
> they can take a set at an angle and make lots of noise and/or pop out of
> gear.  I've had to replace the 5/R cluster, r grear, and the idler to fix
> the problem.
>
> Good luck.
>
> John
>
> Vangelis,
>
> The shim on the transaxle is a common problem on both the Milano and the
> GTV-6.  Hopefully, there is a good edge which your mechanic can measure and
> find the original size.
>
> I have not experienced the shim problem but Paul Glynn, in Massachusetts,
> gave a seminar on Alfa rear-ends.  If the shim is destroyed, which happens
> sometimes, then you must "guess" and adjust.  I believe it is truly a
> trial-and-error process and experience with these rearends will pay off.  If
> your mechanic has not tried to setup and adjust the rear end before you may
> want to consider finding another transaxle.
>
> I don't have any experience with your double bearing problem.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Steven Silverstein

Well, my car is back from the shop.  The whine in the transaxle turned
out to be a combination of a worn out spacer in the pinion shaft and
worn out bearings for both pinion and lay shafts (these two problems
seemed to be related and one of them caused the other).  For some
strange reason, the replacement bearings listed in the parts manual are
not the same as what we found on my transaxle.  For each shaft, we
replaced two bearings that were stacked on top of each other with a
single one.  On the lay shaft, the replacement bearing was a little
thinner than the two bearings originally in the transaxle so we had to
insert a spacer between the bearing and the backing plate that keeps it
in place.  It all seems to work fine for now and the transaxle is
finally quiet....

Cheers,
Vangelis

Well the correct answer appears to be none-of-the-above for my bucking
Milano gearshifter.

I had nextday aired some new transmission mounts, and a dedionbushing for delivery Friday. It didn't show. I was upset as I intended to drive the Alfa visiting relatives for Xmas, and was nervous about the vibration.

I decided to have another look underneath and noticed that the brake
line was sagging near the gear shift linkage. The metal clip holding it up had rusted away.   So I pop rivetted a new mount into place, and double checked the guibos and CVs...  everything seemed good.  Hopefully good enough to get me home and back.

When I later went out to do some last minute shopping I was surprised to
notice no vibration in the gear shifter.   Apparently the brakeline was
pushing against the gearshift lever enough in 2nd, and 4th gears to
transmit some vibration from the gearbox back through the shifter.   I'd have never guessed that.

Other than being out $40 for next day shipping that wasn't next day... 
It's happy holidays for me and my Alfa.

    --Mark
    --1988 Milano Verde
    --1976 Spider Veloce

I cut & saved this post...

Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 13:07:43 EDT
From: MAXLTV@aol.com
Subject: Re: Authorized ZF Reman Centers

Courtesy of ZF, U.S.A., the following are authorized stocking warehouses
for
ZF automatics in the U.S.

Accurate Transmissions
935 Campus Drive
Mundelein IL 60060
800-428-7726

All Automatic Transmission
5530 NE 86ht St.
Portland OR 97230
800-461-5396

Eriksson Industries
146B Elm Street
Old Saybrook, CT 06475
800-388-4418

Ed's Transmissions Exchange
10226 Highway 90 North
Maryville, WA 98270
800-356-3303
 

Peter Schmid Transmission
1166 Independence Ave
Mountain View CA 94043
800-372-8726

Don

Above posted by Don

Mike Nakamura (mike_nakamura@email.msn.com)
Fall City WA USA

Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 12:08:32 +-1300
From: Bruce Harrison <bruceh@gdc.govt.nz>
Subject: RE: changing rear cv boots on Alfetta

Jun

I'm no mechanic,  but I replaced the boots on my Alfetta a few months
ago. Its not hard to do but takes a little time.  The main points are:

- - jack up the rear of the car as high as you can, then support with
axle stands and chock the front wheels so the car can't fall off the stands.

- - the half-shafts have to be removed from the car,  to do this you
need to remove the 6 allen key bolts at each end.  You MUST have a good quality in-hex key to remove these.  I used one that goes on my socket set.

- - to stop the half shafts turning as you loosen the bolts, have
someone apply the parking brake, and loosen the bolts at the wheel end first.  I loosen two bolts at a time, then rotate the shaft for the next two....

- - once you have the shafts out, you need to remove one of the cv
joints from the shaft.  The joint is held on by a circlip located under the tin cover over the big (outer) end of the joint.

- - I used a flat ended punch to tap around the edges of the tin cover
until it came off. The circlip is hidden under the black grease.  Remove with circlip pliers and then tap the joint off the shaft.
.
- - you can then replace both boots on the shaft.

- - be very careful not to get any dirt on the grease or in the joint.

- - then reverse the above to put it all back together.

- - not sure if there is a special tool for the metal ties that go
around the ends of the boots.  I just used pliers but made sure I got the straps tight.

Let me know if you need any more detail.

Bruce Harrison
Gisborne, New Zealand
1985 Alfa 90
1980 Alfa 6
1978 Sud Ti
1977 Alfetta
1968 Spider

 Another gentleman mentioned that the CV boot on his GTV6 axle has 
split. Please do NOT use a quick boot type product; they are quick for a 
reason. They're quick to go on; unfortunately they are also quick to sling 
grease all over the underside of the car and split open.The part number for 
the correct CV boot that you need from Beck Arney worldparts (they supply a lot of your mom and pop and chain type auto parts stores) is # 7560....Boot 
replacement on a transaxle Alfa is EASY; if your'e charged more than $100 for  this job your'e getting ripped off........
       For shops and other Alfa owners on the digest; I have another way to 
replace the boots on a CV axle. There's a company in Gatineau, Quebec
Canada that sells a CV boot replacement tool that allows you to replace the
boot without even taking the joint apart......
 For a GTV6, this tool works this way: You unbolt the broken boot side 
from the car; leave the other side still on the car. You use their universal 
CV boot (Thicker and much more durable than OEM; and you can trim it to 
whatever diameter you need. You cut off the broken boot and old 
clamps;inspect the now open joint for any damage/ pack grease in the joint 
races and slide what looks like a traffic cone over the joint. You lubricate 
the outside of the cone with Pledge furniture polish (Seriously!) and
just SLIDE the boot onto the shaft outside inward; turn it inside out, fill it 
with grease and clamp it.That's all there is to the job with this tool.
       The company that sells the tool is called DISTRIBUTION ASTORIA
2000 Inc.and they can be reached at 1-888-413-3656 or emailed at 
:distr.lalicorne@qc.aira.com 
Patrice Poulin is their VP and was demonstrating this product in local DC 
Area shops 2 weeks ago (the week I got laid off). I'm usually skeptical about 
"wonder tools and quick fixes" but this tool works. As a demo, he redid the 
outer CV boot on a "96 Toyota Camry (well known for being a PITA and taking 2 1/2 labor hours just to get the axle off the car) in 20 minutes. 
       No financial attachment, blah blah blah; just a tool that
works......
Terry Akins

Just as I was sending out my skepticism about the relative importance of model
years in the Alfa scheme of things, the incoming digest brought Brian Shorey's
response to Joe Elliott, citing a big model-year difference between 1981 and
1982 GTV-6s, the 4.10 final drive ('81), and 3.41 ('82.) Oops.

D'A & T give one set of mechanical specifications for all GTV-6s, with the 4.1
final drive, while citing a bunch of cosmetic and amenity modifications
introduced in February 1983 on both the 2.0 four and the 2.5 V6 - tinted
glass, integrated windscreen aerial, new front seats, gray side moldings,
improved sound-conditioning. As far as I can tell from a limited number of
foreign road tests, the 4.1 final drive remained standard on the GTV6
everywhere but in the USA, where CAFÉ standards might have caused ARDONA to go
to the 3.41, but I don't know this for sure; if anyone in the Real World
outside knows about out-of-US ratio changes that testimony would be useful.

In looking for another transaxle Alfa with a 3.41 (actually more like 3.42)
final drive I found no fewer than nine ratios in use in production cars:

4.78/1 (9/43)

4.55/1 (9/41)

4.30/1 (10/43)

4.20/1 (10/42)

4.10/1 (10/41)

3.91/1 (11/43)

3.82/1 (11/42)

3.54/1 (11/39)

3.42/1 (12/41)

 I don't know whether all of the Alfetta ring-and-pinion gearsets interchange
with the those of the later cars, but the 3.41 and 3.54 gears were both
used in 1984 on the 90 (on the 2.4 TurboDiesel and the 2.5 V6 respectively),
so (given Alfa's long lead times) both would have been effectively in the
pipeline to the corporate parts-bin when ARDONA needed an economy-stretcher.

Cheers

John H.

Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2001 19:43:03 +0200
   From: "M. Carta" <m.carta@chello.nl>
Subject: Re: Re: Switching V6 gearbox for TS unit

All Alfa shown below have the same gear ratio, and differ only in final
drive:

Final drive
1.6            9/41    0,220
1.8          10/43    0,233
1.8 TB    11/43    0,256
2.0 TS    10/41    0,244
3.0 V6    11/39    0,282

Speed in km/h at 5600 RPM (example)

1.6          172
1.8          182
1.8 TB    200
2.0 TS    191
3.0 V6    221

Alfa

From: nizam@aol.com
Subject: Re: 75 Turbo Gear ratios

Thanks to Alfa75Turbo's post, I was able to skim through the 
manuals.

The differential ratios for the 1988 model year run are as follows:

Alfa 75 1.6     4.56
Alfa 75 1.8 and 1.8ie     4.30
Alfa 75 1.8 Turbo     3.91
Alfa 75 2.0 TSpark     4.10
Alfa 75 2.5V6     4.10
Alfa 75 3.0V6     3.54

This info was on pages 47 (51) and 48 (52) of the 
Alfa_75basis.pdf file (numbers in brackets refer to the PDF 
reader page numbers).

This information is useful for those of us who race our cars and 
need to perhaps have separate differential ratios for different 
track/circuits.

One more important note is that Alfa Romeo used exactly the 
same gear sets, from 1st to 5th, and also reverse, for all the 
models listed above.

Two other models that have different gear sets AND differential 
ratios are the 75 Turbo Evoluzione and the Alfa SZ (ES30).  If 
anyone has those manuals, I'll pore over it for you and post the 
ratios.

Thanks!

Nizam

Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 17:14:45 +0200
   From: "M. Carta" <m.carta@chello.nl>
Subject: Re: 75 Turbo Gear ratios

I        2,875
II       1,720
II       1,226
IV      0,946
V       0,780

Final   3,910

Alfa

Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 22:51:19 -0700
From: "Gary Krumian" <gkrumian@yahoo.com>
Subject: Auto Milano ratios

Peter,
Here's the information you need.

1st 2.48
2nd 1.48
3rd 1
Final drive 3.154

  Here are the basics for a non-LSD to LSD conversion. This is under the
assumption that the transmission part of the transaxle is ok, that the
bearings  on the LSD were checked as being ok, and that the complete
transaxle is either on the workbench  or  in the car without fluid, right
caliper/axle shaft disconnected.

        1. Take the bolts off holding the diff cover to the transaxle. Pull cover
off case.
        2. Pull the pumpkin out of casing. You may need to rock and/or hit the
pumpkin to loosen it from the driver side stub axle.
        3. Loosen bolts holding ring gear to pumpkin. Remove ring gear from
pumpkin. This too may take some force.
        4. Install old ring gear on LSD unit. You must reuse/buy new LSD ring gear bolts. The non-LSD bolts are too long and will not properly attach the
ring gear to the pumpkin. I hand tighten all of the bolts and then take
one bolt out at a time add red loctite and torque to the specified value.
        5. Install LSD pumpkin into transaxle. Spin until it seats flush with
casing. I add a little sealant to the cover and reattach diff cover to transaxle.
        6. reattach caliper, axle shaft, and add fluid. I have used Redline 75/90NS with great success.

        Some may worry that you will get diff noise, but after having done this
procedure on a dozen GTV6 and Milano    transaxles with any issues, I have yet to see any issues on a converted LSD transaxle. Good Luck.

        ANDREWG
        Houston, Tx