| Thanks for your reply, the closest repair center you may get in contact is our Service Organization in US ZF Industries, Inc. Mr. Tim Corcoran. Phone: (847) 634-3500 > -----Ursprüngliche Nachricht----- Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 19:47:07 -0500 From: "B.D. & Petei Zelazny" <unltd-ltd@brooksdata.net> Subject: Re: leaky 164 steering racks > well, the stop leak dint work on my '92 164L's steering
rack/hose
leak, I cccconfess!! It was me. Meridian Auto Parts Hi Wendy, Are you sure it's the pump? Check out the pump-rack hose - it gets fried by the exhaust
header and Check out my website for diagnois and repair. Tony I asked if anybody had the udated white power steering resovoir over the brown one. My '88 3.0 has a white (or I should say was once white)
reservoir, and Paul Begemann Hi guys, >From personal experience, this task is indeed a labor
intensive one.
In 1. Remove road wheels Warning: you can only muster 1/4 turns so be patient. Once the rack is out, take a moment to reflect on your
achievement and Is it worth the labor charge for someone else to do it? Absolutely. Nizam Re: milano steering
rack Getting it down to 9 hours was as much "practice makes
perfect" as anything Are you faced with the job? I can fax or send you the
articles
and an Mike From: ethan schartman <eschartman@yahoo.com> Subject: rack replacement ( was: RE: [alfa] Milano Power Steering) >> From: "Spencer, Graham" >>How involved is replacing the rack? Do I have to pull >> the engine to replace, any special tools, is this >> best left to an expert, etc. funny you should ask. i just replaced my steering rack two days ago. count on 5 hours minimum. you don't pull the engine, but you do have to lift it up a bit. here's the run down: 1) put front end on stands, remove front wheels. 2) disconnect tie rods from steering knuckles. if the cotter pins are too rusty to come out cleanly they'll shear right off when you put a wrench on the nut. jack up the lower a-arm so that the tie rod is about level. knock it loose with a heavy tapered punch and hammer. 3) remove the air intake box and both exhaust manifolds. you do not need to remove the cat. just disconnect the cat from the rear motor mount and the two donuts holding the middle muffler. put rags in down pipes to prevent nuts bolts from falling in. 4) unbolt the motor mounts. place jack (and a board to avoid marring your sump) under the oil drain plug. lift engine straight up about 2-3 inches. 5) clean the fittings on the rack with carb cleaner and toothbrush. make sure no grease is left on or around the banjo bolts. disconnect the banjo bolts and cover the lines to keep dirt from falling in (i used glove fingertips) 6) remove cotter pin from pinch bolt securing steering column to rack. if it doesn't come out, just deform it enough to get a wrench on it (13mm) - it'll shear off with no problem. remove pinch bolt. spray liberally with PB blaster. 7) now for the 4 bolts holding the rack to the crossmember. on the driver's side the one on the front side of the cross member is easy to remove with a combination of a universal joint and extensions (13mm). the rear one i was only really able to access with a *short* (less than six inches long) 13mm wrench by reaching up under the frame rail. on the passenger side, the forward one is easily gotten with a universal joint and extensions. for the rear one clearance is tight up to the flywheel cover, and the bolt is inside a channel so it's tough to bring a flat combo wrench in from the back. if you have an offset 13mm box wrench, it might work. i removed it by using a 13mm socket that has a unversal joint integrated into it (craftsman). i plugged that into a 2 inch extension plugged into a universal joint and then about 24" of extentions. one hand turns the wrench while the other keeps the universal joints in proper alignment. 8) use a flat blade screwdriver to push the universal joint of the steering column up off the input shaft to the rack (it won't come off completely). jam the screwdriver into the gap where the pinch bolt would be and wiggle it back and forth rapidly while rotating the rack forward (i.e. swing the bottom up and forward) and puching it in toward the engine. it should pop off with out too much difficulty. 9) once the rack is disconnected from the steering column, rotate it on to it's side and pull it out through the wheel well (there's only one way it'll come out 10) before installing the new rack, clean the dirt and grease away from the mounting holes in the cross member. make sure there are plugs of some sort on the fluid inputs to the new rack before stuffing it into the car. 11) prep new rack by adjusting tie rods ends to corresponding lengths on old rack (if recycling tie rod ends, measure before removing) 12) when ready to mate the steering column to the rack input shaft, clean out the splines of the shaft. mark on the outside of the steering colmun clamp with a permanent marker the exact location of the last spline line this up with the corresponding edge of the smooth part of the input shaft and slip them together. if the clamp doesn't slide readily onto the shaft, rotate the two of them together till the pinch bolt gap is up and insert a screwdriver or flat bladed cold chisel ( you don't want the object to interfere with the shaft's movement) into the gap. wiggle the chisel back and forth rapidly while rotating the bottom of the rack back (opposite motion to removal) onto the cross member. 13) the bango bolt on the hard line may be a problem to line up, if so, put a pair of pliers on it and twist it a bit as necessary to get it aligned (obviously, don't do it too much) 14) the only other trick is to wire the spherical exhaust joint and it's gasket to the manifold before reinstalling and to make sure exhaust studs are not caught inside the down pipes before tightening everything down. 15) check and adjust toe as necessary (one full turn of tie rod is about 3.5 or 3.6 mm - this number is in the shop manual) required tools: 13mm socket, shallow 13mm socket with integrated universal joint (craftsman), universal joint, 2" extension, extensions totaling about 24", 14mm socket and/or box wrench, 17mm and 19mm sockets, 13mm combo wrenchs with one less than 6" long, cold chisel, flat bladed screwdrivers, pliers, heavy tapered punch, hammer, 21 or 22mm (i think it's 22, but double check) open ended wrenchs (need 2 or some good quality adjustable wrenchs) for adjusting the outer tie rod ends, jack and jack stands. it's a labor intensive job, but doesn't require any tools that you can't get at sears. - -ethan schartman - -87 milano gold (no more dripping rack!) princeton, NJ Date: Sat, 22 Jul 100 08:50:02 Central Daylight Time From: Kevin Smith <kevin.smith12@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Milano P\S Pump Seals Try Alfa Parts in Berkly (Sp?), CA. They have a web site
too.
Six Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 19:32:27 -0700 From: "Ted Siverns" <tsiverns@lightspeed.ca> Subject: Urethane Boots I recently had to change a tie rod boot (164S but probably for
many
other Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2001 16:06:23 -0800 (PST) Date: Mon, 23 Sep 2002 15:12:54 -0000 From: "andruzzo" <andruzzo@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Steering Rack Seals - ZF kit Hi, A couple of years ago, I visited a ZF distributor/retailer in Athens Greece. I picked up the seal kit for insurance purposes from them. I still have it. The ZF part Number is: 7830 633 007 I've also posted two pics under the "photos" link in the "ZF Power Steering" folder. There's A LOT of seals and O-rings... Now how easily you can source this kit in the US or Canada, is beyone me...I never tried. But you may be able to get in contact with ZF in Germany and order it.... dimitri --- In alfa75@y..., cowfy@a... wrote: > hi steve,i've tried to track a supplier for this part from our garage in > brooklyn many times without succsess.it seems the big boys who sell rebuilt > racks for unfair profit have fozen all others out.i would guess if you have > the time to dismantle a rack and go through the oil retainers i wouldnt be > suprised if certain volvo seals and or bmw seals would be applicable. > cowfy > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2005 08:29:49 -0600 |