40- Electrical

• Light bulbs
• Stereo wiring
• Wire troubles
• Radio removal
• Relay install
• Rear wire bundles
• CD player under seat
• More relay install tips
• Burnt tail light board
• Rear window heater
• Wire connectors
• clock bulb
  

the 9xxx numbers are mostly US part numbers for the light bulbs. Most
european cars must convert to different headlight unit that
uses these US spec bulbs. I don't think H4s are approved for automobils
but are OK with motorcycle (thus available at most autopart stores).
I am not sure what's exact number for the milano I have, i think it
was 9004 or 9006 or something. I've found earlier bmw, saab, and most
european cars uses the same light bulb.

The only major difference between the US spec and H4s that I can see
are the long plastic base on the bulb. Something to do with 
universal connector or so, who knows. I have to say that H4 connectors
are cheasier than the US spec, however. US spec connectors have rubber
seal to prevent moisture from entering headlight assembly while H4 has
none. The short distance between light bulb and metal connector allow
extra heat to be transferred to the cheasy connector that might melt
and cause possible hazzard. 

I have actually seen one of the pep boys here that carry those superwhite
bulbs in US spec form. Not sure if that was the same that can be used
on the rest of Alfas here.

If they want to make $$, they better make those bulb US spec so they
can sell here in the state. How many of us had converted to H4 anyway?!
These are getting popular, so i believe soon we'll see these bulb
at your local store.

any question? let me know if I can help further.

Jess

Peter,

The most important wires in the dash - and they seem to be consistent across the
umpteen Milanos I've come across :-) - are:

Pink (two wires) = +12V all the time
Black (two wires) = ground
Red = +12V with ignition switch in "Run" position
Blue with Yellow stripe = power antenna/amplifier signal

There is one more wire in that loom, blue+white I think, for night illumination
(+12V when the dash lights come on) but newer stereos seem to ignore this
feature, and illuminate the buttons the moment the ignition switch is in the
"Run" position.

I don't remember the speaker wires off the top of my head, but it's easy to
figure that one out.  One row of blade connectors are ALL negative connectors.
Simply set your head unit to Front Left, and test all the connectors until the
front left speaker comes on.  Then move to Front Right, and so on and so forth.
I've tried to look for replacement AMP connectors for that part of the circuit
but so far have been unsuccessful.  I've been getting them from wrecked Milanos.

Nizam
-- 

-- 
Carson Damm
Ft. McMurray, AB
Canada

On Saturday, May 6, 2000, duetto74@netzero.net wrote:
>I recently bought a 88 milano verde and am trying to replace the stock
>radio cassette
>player.  So far I have not been successful.  I was told the car came
>supplied with a tool to help with the radio removal.  Does part or all
>of the center console need to be
>removed to gain access?

Vinvent,

The Milano originally came with a tool for removing the radio: two u-shaped 
pieces of metal joined by a chain so they wouldn't get lost.  You can 
substitute 4 nails of the approriate diameter or maybe 2 bent pieces of
coat hanger.  Just stick them in the 4 holes in the corners of the radio
face plate to unlatch the catches and pull the radio out.

Good luck,
Dan Scolaro
Delaware Valley AROC   www.dvaroc.org
Phila, PA

65 2600 Spider
87 Milano Gold
91 164

Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2001 15:32:48 EDT
From: JJK1204@aol.com
Subject: Re: radio removal from Milano

In a message dated 9/23/2001 1:13:43 PM Central Daylight Time, 
bill_bain@hotmail.com writes:

> Once the radio is out, the thought occurs to me that simply replacing it 
> with a modern CD player one would be an option (no more code!), so I'm back 
> to square one -- how much of a nightmere is it to get the radio out?
> 

First if the radio is working but needs the code when you turn it on you will 
get some sort of numbers on the readout, I can't remember exactly what they 
are. If you don't get anything then proceed to radio removal and check the 
fuse in the back of the radio. The radio is removed with the standard style 
DIN removal tool. The tool is a pair of u-shaped pieces of wire. One is 
inserted into the corresponding holes on either side of the radio. You can 
then pull out the unit. Most auto stereo stores will carry them and I believe 
that they came with the Milano, at least both of mine did. If you can't find 
a set a thin coat hanger can be made to work. When I bought my second Milano 
about five years ago Crutchfield had an installation kit for the Blaupunkt 
which I purchased. Installation was easy and all features including the power 
antenna worked correctly. You may luck out and find that someone wrote the 
code on the top of the radio as on both of my Milanos. It was also written in 
the owners manual.

John Katos
West Dundee, IL USA

Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 21:30:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: Suhas  Malghan <malghs@earthlink.net>
Subject: GTV6 headlight relay in fusebox install

Brian Shorey's article in a recent Alfa Owner mentioned installing headlight
realays in the fusebox rather than cutting wires in the engine bay.  Poking
around in an area where I'm usually content to leave well enough alone,
there's a unused relay socket above the PW switches in a GTV6 fusebox sized
for a VF4 relay.  I used a Siemens VF4-11F11 (SPST) from Newark Electronics.
Installation is simple and doesn't require any cutting or splicing. Pull
the grey wire that comes from the column switch from its connector at the
fusebox and plug that into the relay socket at the 85 terminal.  Run a
separate ground wire from the 86 terminal to the fusebox common ground
connection  right behind the hood release latch.  Power can be taken from
the unused terminal next to the one that powers the window motors and
plugged into the 30 terminal and finally run a wire from 87 to the terminal
that the grey wire initially occupied on the back of the fusebox.

This saves the switch from the low beam, but if you'd like to use a relay
for the high beams as well repeat the operation but substitute the
grey/black wire for the grey one.  There aren't any more sockets available
on the fusebox so it will have to be restrained some other way.  Regular
spade terminals can be used, but more care will have to be taken to make
sure a connection is made since they won't click into the sockets like the
tabs on the original Alfa pieces do.  Unfortunately, the click-in terminals
I bought with the relay woudn't fit in the Alfa fusebox sockets.

As opposed to installing relays in the engine compartment, this method does
have longer wire runs and connections but I can't say how much effect it has
in lowering the voltage seen at the lights in comparison.  It does save the
switch from a lot of amps (the connector for the grey wire at the fusebox
was browned a bit), uses the original fusebox fuses to protect the wiring to
the lights, and is kind to the wiring harness, though.  It's an option if
that's what you're after.

Suhas Malghan
Germantown, MD
85 GTV6
-- 

Well, last weekend, I looked with pride at my handwork (it's a real b...h to do) installing an Autopower roll cage in my GTV6. Then I noticed the clock was stopped. I installed a new fuse. The clock ran fine until I pushed on the brake. The fuse then blew, and I had no brake lights. It took me forever to find the short by tracing things down with my VTVM ( I'm dating myself--what are the solid state volt/ohm meters called? SSVM?). I had neatly drilled through a bundle of wires in the wheel well, of all places.

It turns out that ALL of the rear wiring (my "fuel low" light is now on all the time) goes up and over the drivers side (US car) wheel well before it goes forward to various places (except for the battery cable, which  goes over, then down through the floor to an undercar location.)

So, before installing the rear struts (this probably applies to the roll bar as well) and
drilling through the wheel well for the bolts, take off the wheel well cover, and avoid the
wires!!

As requested by Joseph Kanellopoulos & other digesters,
I took a couple of pictures about my CD changer installation idea.
The pics are from pedals/steering wheel side looking at 
driver's seat low front end. The pic angle is a bit bad because 
I had to put my head inside the car, under the steering wheel,
to focus (w/o that great success!) the image :)
You can see the pictures at these URL:

http://www.geocities.com/twowheels_99/cdbar1.jpg

http://www.geocities.com/twowheels_99/cdbar2.jpg
You can see the same pictures with some titling for 
explanation matters here (I did this just in case the
picture's darkness leaves some understanding doubts):

http://www.geocities.com/twowheels_99/cdbar1ex.jpg

http://www.geocities.com/twowheels_99/cdbar2ex.jpg

Hope you all will enjoy it.

Ciao!
Luca 

This is an attempt to describe, in laymens terms how to use relays that do
more than save stalk switches, they provide brighter lights too.
Parts needed for Hi and Lo beams.  4 Bosch 25 amp relays.  A number of
female spade (quick connect) wire lugs, and enough #12 wire to go from the
battery to each head lamp relay. That may be done  last.   Locate one relay
near LF light.  Locate the wire that feeds that left light's low beam, cut,
skin and stake on a lug to each wire.  (to be sure you cut the right one,
turn on low beams)  A test light with sharp probe will find the hot wire.
Plug the wire from the stalk switch into terminal #30,  and ground #87.
Plug the other wire from the headlight into terminal #85 and the wire
from battery into #86.
For the Hi beam left side turn on the Hi Beams and locate the hot wire with
your test light, cut, skin and stake on connectors.   Now plug into terminal
#30 (second relay) the wire from stalk switch(hot wire), and ground #87.
Same procedure, battery wire to #86 and the other headlight wire into #85.
Go to the right side light and repeat the procedure from the left side. If
you feel comfortable with the relays hanging in air, just tightly tape the
relays and wires and let them hang or secure as you see fit.  Tip, you may
run a #12 wire from he battery pos. to one relay terminal #86 and jump over
to the other relay terminal #86.  You may want to draw a diagram first to
see the circuits better.  Let me know if you follow this easily, please.
Fred Di Matteo 
 

Kevin, it was no short that fried the ground terminal, it's an overload
due to all of the current flowing into the bulbs in the tail light circuit which go through that ground connection which is not heavy enough to carry that load.  (Yes, poor design)  A solution that works is to bridge the terminals with a solder joint so the contacts cannot overheat due to the loose connection.  Any loose connection causes that joint to arc and arcing makes heat!  Fred Di Matteo  AROC Technical Advisor in Fort Myers, Florida

Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 08:57:59 +1030
   From: Jim McDougall <jsm@voidnet.com.au>
Subject: Re: rearwindow heater

G'day Peter,
In addition to Arjan's suggestions, there is a main eight pin connector
which supplies the rear car power services. It is behind the dash at the
base of the front door pillar. In the RH drive car it is behind the
glovebox. The heaviest wire (black I think) is the rear window power
supply. This connector can fail and is a very likely source of your
problem. If the indicator light on the on-off switch comes on when you
operate it and you can also hear the relay 'click', then this connector
is most likely to be the problem.
Regards,
Jim

Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 20:00:26 -0400
From: "Bill Bain" <bill_bain@hotmail.com>
Subject: Milano Clock bulb

OK, so this is not exactly earth shattering news, but at least the first 
minor repair on my Milano was a success.  If anyone is interested, the
bulb 
for the light in the Milano clock is a GE 17035, not a #74.  It was a
bit of 
struggle to locate the right bulb at the local NAPA, but perseverance
did 
pay off.  Now I'll know exactly how late I am getting home for dinner.


Bill Bain
AROC Atlanta
'83 Spider
'87 Milano Silver