43- Cluster and Electronic adjustments, ARC too.

• Brake arc light
• Too many ARC lights?
• Cruise Control
• Third brake light
• Oil level warning light
• Switch on ARC panel
• Intermittent speedo
• TS oil press sender
• Oil press sender testing
• Light stalk
• Turn signals
• Extra ARC switch on turbo
• ARC connectors
• ARC lights
• Wiper woes
• Switch ind. bulbs
• 1992 fuse box
• door switch
• wipers parking
  

This sounds like a problem with the brake light switch.  This switch is 
tested in the
open and closed positions, and the ARC STOP LIGHT and BRAKE will light if 
there
is a problem with either switch position.  That's why the switch has more 
than two
wires connected.  Mine had a problem with the "on" position, and the same 
warning lights would go on whenever I pressed the pedal.   Bulbs, grounds, 
etc.,
 nothing seemed to fix the problem, yet the brake lights always worked
fine. 
Finally
 put in new switch, problem gone for good. 

My Milano just had the clutch pivot bolt failure.  Classic fatigue,
probably 
accelerated by no grease on the pivot.  Funny fail safe mode, the clutch 
still worked with about
10X normal effort.  Gives me a good excuse to drive the spider!

Harold Downey
87 Milano, 69 Spider Veloce
Austin, TX

A few weeks ago I inquired about information on the disco lights of the
ARC (Alfa Romeo Control)panel.  A couple of fixes seem to have resolved
the issue.  To share with fellow Alfisti that may have similar
problems..... 

1. Replaced bulbs in rear lights with correct wattage bulbs and
Osfram(sp?) brand - not the Wagners from Kragen/Grand Auto.  Seems like
the Milano didn't apprciate those cheaper brass based bulbs available
here.

2. Repaired poor ground (sound familiar??) under dash - passenger side.

Now I have removed the black electrical tape and am happy with the lack
of flashing red lights on the dash.  Now if I could only avoid those in
the rear view mirror....!!!!

John Wright
1989 Milano Gold/America
1969 GTV 1750
San Francisco

If the speedometer works, I would guess the speed signal to the Cruise
Control unit is OK.  The next area I would check would be the brake and
clutch pedal interlock switches.  There is a switch for the clutch pedal
just like the switch on the brake pedal (for the brake lights).  This type
of switch has three terminals.  The clutch circuit uses only two (C & NO)
while the brake switch uses three (this ensures the ARC will flash the red
warning lamp if you have a burned out brake lamp or a bad brake switch,
really it also checks the switch, but has no way to tell you of a bad
switch, that was a hard one to troubleshoot!).

If I remember correctly, the logic is like this, both pedals in rest
position (and switches adjusted correctly) signal to CC unit is ground via
the rear tail-lamps (check that you have the right bulbs, European type,
not
standard 1157).  If the clutch pedal is pushed, the circuit goes open and
the CC unit will release and or not engage.  If the brake pedal is pushed,
the circuit goes to +12V and again, the CC unit will release or not engage.
 

You can check this circuit without pulling the CC unit out of the dash. 
Open the hood and carefully disconnect the CC servo unit cable.  You have
to
squeeze, the connector to pull it apart.  The wire for the circuit is the
red wire.  With a DVM, you can check the switches.  First put the meter in
voltage measurement, DC.  Do the following test on the red wire in the
connector coming FROM the firewall.

Measure the voltage relative to ground. With the ignition ON (engine off)
and the pedals at the rest position, the voltage should zero.  Next have an
assistant push on the brake pedal, the voltage should now be 12V and the
brake lights should be ON.  Finally, have the assistant push the clutch
pedal (while still pushing brake pedal), the signal should now go to zero
(open circuit). 

If test results are OK, next check the resistance of the circuit, relative
to ground, with both pedals in the rest position.  Keep the meter leads
where they are (red to the red wire and black to ground) and switch the
meter to read ohms.  The reading should be a few ohms.

If all that shakes out OK, you may have a bad CC unit or a bad servo unit. 
You can find more VDO CC information at
http://www.conninc.com/w123d/cruise.htm

Finally, the CC unit is "in" the center console just about under the radio.

Not easy to remove.  At the plug, the wiring is: Pin #1:  (yellow) to
servo,
#2: (black) ground, #3: (wht/blk) to servo, #4: (red) to servo via pedal
switches, #5:(lt blue/blk) resume signal, #6: (gry/ylw) decel/set button,
#7:(grey) speedo signal, #8 not used, #9:(wht/red) to servo, #10:(lt blue)
to servo, #11 (green) to servo, #12 (gray/blk)  to power "off" relay
normally 12V, #13 (pink/wht) power on with key, #14:( gray/grn) accel/set
button, #15 not used. 

Disclamier: I am 99% sure the wiring is as I noted, however my Milano
manual
is missing the CC section.  I did a retro installation into my '87 and it
seems to work, but I have not be able to have it work "smoothly"  It tends
to be jerky compared with my other car's cruise control.  Can someone check
the "wiring" noted above for me?  Thanks

Good luck!

Erik Roe
 

Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 23:02:16 EDT
From: KURT6507@aol.com
Subject: Milano Cruise Control

Instructions for repair of Milano Cruise Control
These instructions worked to repair my Milano CC unit and have been checked
and approved by a VDO technician.

Alfa Romeo CRUISE CONTROL
There are three major components in the CC system: the control unit
(amplifier),    the Amplifier, the Transducer and the Actuator  Servo unit.

Amplifier: This device compares the actual speed of the car and the selected
speed. In the event of a deviation from the selected speed the control unit
sends pertinent control signals to the electrically actuated throttle servo
unit until the actual and selected speeds are again in agreement.

Transducer: The transducer sends the actual speed signal to the Control unit.

Actuator: The Actuator is an electric unit that adjusts the throttle, via a
motor to an appropriate setting to maintain speed. Check that the linkage is
secure.

System Checks:

In order to trouble shoot the system, you should have a digital volt-ohm
meter, some tests leads with alligator clips, plus straight and
Phillips-head screwdrivers, metric wrenches, and a trouble light.
But first of all, check the obvious  is the fuse blown?  Don9t just LOOK at
the fuse rotate it back and forth in its spring holder to assure clean
connection at each end. Check it with a meter.

Important:
DO NOT USE THE U.S. TYPE 1157 BULBS  THEY CAN DAMAGE THE CONTROL UNIT
BEYOND REPAIR!
If you are not sure, check that the brake light bulb in each tail light unit
of your car is an original equipment OSRAM or BOSCH bulb. The correct bulbs
are available from Alfa parts suppliers.

If the speedometer works, it9s a good guess the speed signal from the
transducer to the Cruise Control unit is OK.

The next area to check would be the brake and clutch pedal interlock
switches. There is a switch for the clutch pedal just like the switch on the
brake pedal (for the brake lights). This type of switch has three terminals.
The clutch circuit uses only two (C & NO) while the brake switch uses three
(this ensures the ARC will flash the red warning lamp if you have a burned
out brake lamp or a bad brake switch, it also checks the switch, but has no
way to tell you of a bad switch!)

 The logic is this; both pedals in rest position, (and switches adjusted
correctly, Closed) signal to CC unit is ground via the rear tail lamps if the
clutch pedal is pushed, the circuit goes open and the CC unit will release
and or not engage. If the brake pedal is pushed, the circuit goes to +12V and
again, the CC unit will release or not engage. You can check this circuit
without pulling the CC unit out of the dash. Open the hood and carefully
disconnect the CC actuator unit cable. You have to squeeze the connector to
pull it apart. With a DVM, you can check the switches. First put the meter in
the DC voltage range appropriate for 12V. Do the following test on the red
wire in the connector coming from the firewall with relation to ground. With
the ignition OFF, and the pedals at the rest position, the voltage should
read zero.  Next, have an assistant push the brake pedal, the voltage should
now be 12V and the brake lights should be ON. Finally, have the assistant
push the clutch pedal should remain 12V. Also press the clutch pedal, brake
pedal released; the signal should go to 12V.
Next check the resistance of the circuit, relative to ground, with both
pedals in the rest position. Keep the meter leads where they are (red + to
pin 4 red wire and black - to ground) and switch the meter to read ohms. The
reading should be a few ohms. Again depress the clutch pedal, Ohms reading
should be near infinity.
 

Cruise Actuator Checkout
Here are some very rough checks that can be done as follows:
Disconnect the cruise actuator cable from the plug located on the firewall.

Using a VOM, check for continuity at the cable pins as follows:
Pin 1 and 2: about 2 to 10 ohms
Pin 1 and 3: about 2 to 10 ohms
Pin 2 and 3: about 2 to 10 ohms

CAUTION: Do not touch 12 volts to pins 1, 2 or 3, or you will permanently
damage the actuator.
Using 2 jumper wires connected to the battery, test the motor by momentarily
touching positive to pin 4 and negative to pin 5 the motor should run
(reverse the wires and the motor should run in the reverse direction).
Momentarily touch + to pin 6 and - to pin 7 the clutch solenoid coil should
make a clicking noise, indicating it is working.
These checks will usually detect stripped gears, faulty circuit contacts or
worn motor bearings, although the motor should run smoothly.

If all that shakes out OK, you may have a bad CC unit or a bad servo unit.

Finally, the CC unit is "in" the center console just about under the radio.
Not easy to remove.  At the plug, the wiring is:
        Pin #1 (yellow) to servo Pin # 2
        Pin #2 (black) ground
        Pin #3 (wht/blk) to servo Pin # 6
        Pin #4 (red) via pedal to servo Pin # 4
        Pin #5 (lt. blue/blk) resume signal,
        Pin #6 (gry/ylw) decel/set button
        Pin #7 (grey) speedo signal
        Pin #8 not used
        Pin #9 (wht/red) to servo Pin # 3
        Pin #10 (lt blue) to servo Pin # 7
        Pin #11 (green) to servo Pin # 5
        Pin #12 (grey/blk) to power "off" relay, normally 12V,
        Pin #13 (pink/wht) power on with key,
        Pin #14 (grey/grn) accel/set button,
        Pin #15 not used.
Note: Should Surging occur, check that there is a small amount of slack in
cable when at rest.

Hope this helps all who need it.
If you have any questions, feel free to E-mail me as I have become quite
comfortable with the system.

Kurt Incledon
kurt6507@mindspring.com
87 Milano Gold (Mickie) Now with working Cruise Control
86 Spider (Rickie) No cruise, but happy non-the-less

Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 13:21:26 EDT
From: KURT6507@aol.com
Subject: Re: alfa-digest V8 #104

Milano Cruise Control

I'm looking over the post I sent regarding the CC unit and relized I let 1 misprint in it, Pin
4 and 5 will energize the sloenoid, and Pins 6 and 7 will energize the motor. The printed
setting are wiring for the MBZ system.

Sorry about the misprint, all other setting are correct.
Kurt Incledon
87 Milano 
86 Spider

This is explained in the owner's manual, basically the plastic housing
slides straight back. On mine the first time was a bit of tug. Mine
turned out not to be the bulb but instead one of the pins in the plug
under the left rear speaker had backed out. THAT took a long time to
find as it seemed to come and go with humidity.

Carson Damm

Matt Danning wrote:
> 
> Hello.
>
> The bulb in my Milano's third brake light (US models only?) is burned
> out, and for the life of me, I cant figure out how to access the bulb.
> Judicious prying at various points didn't seem to help.  Any ideas out
> there?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Matt
> 
Ok, here ya go, went out to the old girl and had a look. There's two
small notches (slots) on the front side of the housing that you look at
when on your knees looking out the back window. There is a tongue in
there with a button on the end. Push the button up with a screwdriver
and slide that side back off the catch, repeat for the other side.
Questions?
Carson

Will Owen wrote:
> 
> Carson Damm said -
> 
> > The black plastic housing slides straight back,
> > might need a bit of a
> > grunt to get started.
> 
> and John Hertzman said -
> 
> If his is like mine, pulling the front two-thirds of
> the housing toward the front of the car while gently
> lifting its front edge (which cantilevers over the
> base) does it, and doing either the lft or the pull
> alone does not do it.
> 
> Gentlemen -
> 
> Much thanks to you both. Carson seems to be right
> about the grunt - all the heaving and tugging and
> lifting I could do barehanded was of no use at all.
> There are two slots in the base, about 1/4"x1/8", that
> look as though they might be significant. As it
> appears that I will have to resort to tools, is there
> anything either of you could suggest about how best to
> go about that? I have some experience with plastic
> case design, having done a lot of assembly drawings of
> objects that I had to take apart with no guidance at
> all (because the drawings weren't done yet, of
> course!), but then I wasn't working with something
> that was fastened to an inconvenient part of a
> car...and I swear by Saint Fusi that if and when I do
> get this sucker apart, I *will* make a drawing and
> send it to anyone who asks!
> 
> Will

Well... saturday I decided to relax and use some free time
for my 75 Turbo. Apart 4 hours of yesterday (sunday) I spent
in working on the RM250 that won't start, the bastard, I've been
all the weekend with the Alfa.
Well, washed, inside and outside, made a list of "TO DO"s for my
mechanic who will be in charge of HER from 7th April to end
of the month (I'll be abroad), I also abused of her a bit on
some tight twisty roads, made of chicanes and hairpins.

Well.. I figured out I need new tires, I need to check dampers
(are yellow Koni re-chargable??? uh?)... and ... TA DA.... I figured
out what's that damned switch on the ARC I asked about coupla weeks ago!

Well: it must be one of the "last minute addons" typical of Alfa Romeo
:-)
That thing should stay in the allarm pad, but it isn't!! The switch just
bypass the light (for not making it annoying) turning on WHEN the
turbine
is overheating.....  My mechanic had it on driving from Italy to Russia
after
some 1000km with turbine ON! :-))))

Great! ;)

nodoubt, 
937 landpilot
A lifetime isn't enough
937RS2, 75 Turbo, RM250

To be honest I don't really remember what the signal should look like,
but my experience with these types of devices is that they either work or
don't. If you look for a signal it will either be there or not.

Sorry I can't be more specific. Usually all the manuals ever say is to
substitute with a 'known good unit' or some such silliness.

FWIW, I had a similar problem with another (non-Alfa Car, Ferrari actually)
that uses a very similar speedo set up. The Speedo was intermittent, and as
time went on would work less of the time. A new speedo sender solved the
problem. (Very Common Ferrari problem, BTW) I never did any real
troubleshooting, though, I just replaced the sender.

Jeff

<somebody wrote>

><The speedometer stopped working on my 88 milano gold. I got a new
>speedometer
>pulse generator, and it worked for 6.5 miles then stopped. After about 20
>miles of driving it started to work for 213 miles then stopped again. Is
>their any way to test the pulse generator and the speedometer for proper
>opperation ? I have a good connection at the pulse generator and at the
>connector under the rear seat.
>Thanks in advance for any help.>
>
>Sounds like the speedo sender in the transmission is on its way out. You
>could check to see if there is a signal coming out of it (Before the gizmo
>under the rear seat) with a scope or logic probe when the speedo is in the
>non-functioning mode.
 

What should this signal look like(Vp-p, square or sine) and how noisy is
the
good signal?
-- 
 Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 09:30:52 +0200
From: CN=Per-Olof_Lindroos/O=Tillquist_Process_AB@TILLQUIST-PROCESS.SE
Subject: Re: speedometer sending unit

I had a simular problem in my GTV 2.0  -84 with the speedometer some years
ago. The speedometer was working intermittently. I traced the signal with
an oscilloscope and it was allways to be found in the cable from the sender
unit but sometimes not in the plug to the speedometer. The problem was to
be located a a Molex Plug behind the instrument panel The plug had parted a
little bit and vibrations etc disturbed the contact. The plug was not
documented in any manual or electrical diagrams.

Per-Olof Lindroos

GTV 2.0 1984
 

   Date: 
        Sun, 2 Apr 2000 14:19:34 -0400
   From: 
        "Jeff Greenfield" <alfaguy@usa.net>

The speedometer stopped working on my 88 milano gold. I got a new
speedometer
pulse generator, and it worked for 6.5 miles then stopped. After about 20
miles of driving it started to work for 213 miles then stopped again. Is
their any way to test the pulse generator and the speedometer for proper
opperation ? I have a good connection at the pulse generator and at the
connector under the rear seat.
Thanks in advance for any help.>

Sounds like the speedo sender in the transmission is on its way out. You
could check to see if there is a signal coming out of it (Before the gizmo
under the rear seat) with a scope or logic probe when the speedo is in the
non-functioning mode.

If this is the part that you replaced, you might have gotten a defective one
(like that never happenes with Alfa Parts :() Test it. If That is ok, there
is an amplifier or some type of electronic interface between the sender and
the speedo under the rear seat. Those have been known to fail as well.

Jeff - '85 Ferrari 308 GTSi QV and no running assembled Alfa's at this time.
 

Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 13:05:52 EDT
From: Pottree@aol.com
Subject: speedo spinning

In a message dated 05/18/2000 5:37:41 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
owner-alfa-digest@digest.net writes:

<< The other day while on the highway the speedo on my 93 Spider Veloce wildly spun
 from a steady 60 MPH down to 35 and up to 75 about 3-4 times before it settled
 back at an apparent 60 MPH. >>

The same thing happened on my former Milano.  The speedo would put on a 
little performance for a minute or so every few months, just for variety's 
sake.  The PO reported it'd been doing this for quite some time, also rarely 
(BTW, this same PO also had as his other car a 4 door Maser biturbo!).

After perhaps a year of this the speedo failed (one would say died...) and it 
was sent off to a speedo shop near SF.  The problem in this case was a single 
internal electronic component, probably worth $US 0.05, perhaps a transistor. 
 Whatever it was, it was replaced, the speedo remounted, and it worked 
perfectly for the next couple of years we owned the car and works still, AFAIK.

While it can be annoying, driving the Milano for several months with a gaping 
hole where the speedo used to be while it was out for resurrection 
demonstrated how unnecessary this particular instrument actually is.

I don't think many people us it to see if they're going too slowly.  And it 
is supremely easy to tell if you are going too fast, or even your speed 
(using the tach).  The part that is actually important, IMHO, is the 
odometer, for the service intervals and the tax man.

Or, you could use the "tape" fix we learned about at the track recently from 
an old-time, big-time racer: cover the offending instrument w/ a piece of 
tape and stomp the go pedal.

Charlie
LA, CA, USA

Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 17:24:10 -0400
From: "Brian Shorey" <bshorey@cisco.com>
Subject: RE: milano intermittent tacho

> the tach on my recently acquired milano werde sometimes
> works fine, at other times it goes from ~500rpms at idle to
> ~1500 when wound up past what surely must be 5k rpms.  any
> suggestions as to which connection needs to be looked at 1st?

After you clean the connections, I have found a large number of GTV6 and
Milano speedos and tachs that have cold solder joints on the main
circuit
board.  Open it up and check for a cold solder joint - if you find one
simply resolder it and your problem will go away.

bs

Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 16:19:00 EDT
From: JJK1204@aol.com
Subject: Re: milano intermittent tacho

As one of the Ancients would say, "Clean you electrical connections!", 
especially the coil terminals. It works for a while on my Milano.

John Katos
West Dundee, IL
 

The Oil pressure sensor on the TS is located above the starter, on 
the left side when you're standing in front of the car, but you'll 
have to remove the air part on the left side of the engine

        Date: 
             Thu, 08 Jun 2000 09:55:28 -0600
       From: 
             Carson Damm <dammwood@home.com>

What you should do is take the wire off the sending unit which is at the
back of the engine down in the vee. Hold the wire in free space and see
what the gauge does, hold the wire against a good ground and see what it
does. You should get a zero reading and a full scale reading. If so
change your sending unit. This is true for v6 or four bangers except the
4's have the sender between the starter and the intake manifold.

-- 
Carson Damm

Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 19:55:55 EDT
From: Pottree@aol.com
Subject: 75 ignition key

In a message dated 05/16/2000 8:01:21 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
owner-alfa-digest@digest.net writes:

<< The key in my friend Jake's Milano won't turn from the OFF position. What
 should we do?  How 'bout a flashback to when Jake bought the car?  OK, Jake
 buys this car and the turn signal cancellation doesn't work--big surprise. >>

Sounds like Jake's car has 2 problems, possibly 3:

The multifunction stalk switch on the left of the column is bad.  It could be 
broken but it is probably toast.  They can be fixed sometimes if the 
"escapement" finger and spring mechanism needs straightening.  There is an 
associated relay that was supposed to be added as a recall procedure, but 
this wasn't always done, and w/o the relay, the life of the stalk switch 
hangs by a thread.

It also sounds as thought the ignition lock is broken (at least deformed), 
most likely as a result of the always-guilty PO driving around with a set of 
heavy keys dangling from the ignition key.  I know JAKE would never do that 
because it will eventually wreck the ignition lock and he will be back in the 
same situation.

It's been reported here that these can sometimes be fixed but it's a PITA. 
They can of course be replaced, but good luck on being able to get a new lock 
that matches the existing keys.

Charlie
LA, CA, USA

Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 16:55:28 -0700 
From: Neil Smith <NeilS@rockitcargo.com>
Subject: Milano turn signals

In the interest of following up on a question with a definitive answer:

I had been having problems with my Milano's turn signals for many months. We
tried replacing the flasher and the column switch, checking the ground
connections etc. The wacky detail here is that the hazard warning signals
worked every time.

Answer: The wire that runs from the fusebox to the flasher unit was bad.
Since it is a different circuit for the hazards they were not affected. My
guess had been the wire that runs from the fusebox to the column switch, so
I was close but no cigar.

Watch as I change lanes safely....!

Neil
'87 Milano Oro
San Francisco

Turn signals not self cancelling:
Going through that right now. When the stalk is moved a small tab (
about the same size as a paper match but very short) will stick out the
back. This tab gets knocked by one of the two butterflies on the
steering wheel shaft and returns the stalk. On mine the two tabs from
the horn contact broke and the head light switch was ok after all. This
all becomes clearer with the shrouds off the steering column.
-- 
Carson Damm
Ft. McMurray, AB
Canada
 

It´s the knock sensor check switch...
--- In alfa75@egroups.com, Carson Damm <dammwood@h...> wrote:
> From my web site in the digest clippings there is an extra switch 
on the
> ARC panel to turn off the warning light when the turbo is 
overheating.
> You might want to read it yourself to see if it is the same thing.
> 
> Carson Damm
>
> 
> Michael Gawanda wrote:
> > 
> > Hi!
> > A friend of mine has a 75 Turbo and on his dashboard,
> > near the Alfa Control he has a additional button with
> > a red light.
> > We don't know what this should be for has anyone of
> > you an idea.
> > And please tell me some about the brake conversion to
> > the volvo brakes he will do it on his turbo.
> > Thanks Mike, Austria
> > 75 T.S.S '89, Giulietta 1,8 '83, 33QV '85, Alfetta GT '74
> > 

Justin,

I have checked the connectors behind the glove box and found that one of the
connections has got very hot and burnt/melted (this is the black wire on the
third block from the drivers side)  I will replace this connection but am
wondering why it has got so hot, any ideas?

I intend to join the AROC @ the end of this month so I will keep you posted
as to my opinions.
I have found out that they do track days which is of great interest to me.

Has anyone any experience of building a kit car using an Alfa V6 engine?

Thanks

Bryce Allcorn

Finally (hopefully!) fixed the problem with my warning lights, the relay
(type 23) on the bottom right of the fuse box decided to go on holiday and
has know been replaced - voila no flashing lights!  Now all I need to do is
make the car do 60mpg so that I can afford to run it - bloody rip off
country.

Thanks for all your help

Bryce Allcorn

Hi Steve,

I had the same problem with my Peugeot 405.  It's not a relay; unfortunately
it is your wiper motor.  There are two windings in the motor - low speed and
high speed.  The low speed controls low, intermittent and parking functions,
while the high is just that -- high speed. You've burnt out the low speed
winding and are going to have to replace the entire motor.

Adam
'89 Peugeot 405
'95 164LS (soon...)

- ---original message (clipped)---

Even though I drove only about 5-10 minutes the slow
speed and the intermittent does not work nor do the blades park.
High Speed is fine.
I am guessing a relay is bad.  Any suggestions?  Anybody have this
problem
before? 

Adam Rodnitzky

G'day Adam,

Arjan's info is spot on, but there is a little bit of extra detail you
should know if you haven't already had a go at removing the switch
housing. Beware that it has a backplate screwed to the dash. If you try
to lever this off you will damage it. Use a small screwdriver at the
bottom of the housing between the housing and the backplate and the
housing will pop off leaving the backplate still mounted to the dash.
This does not need to come off. The globes are called "5mm miniture
wedge".
Regards
Jim

 From: "Arjan Cats" <t.a.j.cats@zonnet.nl>
Subject: Re: Damn electrics. Was headlamp relay etc....

Hi,

>From a user manual 1992:

Relays positioned:     A B    C  D E
                                F G H (I)     L

A = fog light (optional)
B = rear el. windows (optional)
C = interior light
D = supply for all el. consumers after contact switch
E = rear fog lights
F = rear windscreen heater
G = blink lights
H = wiper interval
I = pre-glow time (Diesels)
L = ARC and board instumentation (dials etc)

Fuses:
1 = fog lights 15A
2 = central door lock 10A
3 = rear windscreen heater 20A
4 = head light washers 20A
5 = rear el. windows 25 A
6 = L parking light and R rear light 7,5A
7 = R parking light and L rear light 7,5A
8 = beam light L 7,5A
9 = beam light R 7,5A
10 = dim light R 10A
11 = dim light L 7,5A
12 = ARC 10A
13 = fuel pump, +15 combi relay IE 15A
14 = instrument lighting 7,5A
15 = +15 switches, wipers/washers 15A
16 = fan motor, airco, fuel preheating 20A
17 = reverse lights, +15 switches roof console, rear cigarette lighter,
el.
roof, el. mirrors 15A
18 = el. windows front 25A
19 = interior light, reading spot lights, clock, fuse box lighting, el.
antenna, blinking lights 15A
20 = +30 extra consumers, +30 central control unit, fuel pump 20A
21 = brake lights, front cigarette lighter 15A
22 = preheat plugs (Diesels) 50A

Arjan

Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 09:50:40 +0100
   From: "Paul Darwood" <paul@darwood97.fsnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Re: Wipers not returning

Craig.
All fixed now, there was loads of old grease on the brass contacts, and the
middle one of the three was not at the same angle as the other two, so bent
it back. I think this part is what the manual calls the stopper, as it
controls where the wipers stop by the break in the circular contact part.
  Thanks for the info.
Paul

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Craig" <pxjones@hotmail.com>
To: <alfa75@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 9:30 PM
Subject: [alfa75] Re: Wipers not returning

> G'Day Paul,
>

> > What is the stopper?

>
> I don't know.
>

> > The motor is said to remove by just undoing the nut from the top of
> > the motor and the three nuts holding the motor on. But how do you get
> > the small rotating arm bit off the top of the motor?

>
> Remove the nut an pry it up, it's on a spline.
>

> > Also if the motor is faulty, are they repairable?

>
> After you get the motor out (noting the positions of the arms) remove
> the cover (which covers a big gear). On one side of the big gear
> (probably the bottom) you will find brass contacts which provide power
> to the motor when it's moving. Clean the old grease out and polish the
> contacts with steel wool so they shine. Apply a small amount of new
> grease and reassemble.
>
> If you can, take pics and I will put a write up on my site.
>

> > Craigs manuels say that either the motor is faulty or the stopper.

>
> Speaking of manuals, I just caught someone in Italy trying to sell my
> files on eBay so be warned.
>
> Craig.