Body- includes doors, locks and sunroof

• Sunroof park adj.
• Sunroof probs
• Doors howling
• Headliner
• Door covers
• Sunroof stops
• Sunroof stuck?
• Travel adjustment
• Sunroof fixes
• Central locking
• Bumper wieghts
• Doors not latching
• Grills
• Trim removal
• Verde seat fabric
• Speakers
• Rear seat removal
• Rear deck panel removal
  
• Trim paint
• Trailer hitch
• Sunroof tidbits
• Add remote locking
• Door lock motors
• Sunroof motor repair
• regulator removal
• Paint
• Open engine with no cable
• trunk reflective strip fix
• center console removal
• door handle gaskets
  

DOM!

This weekend I have worked on the sunroof of my 88 AR Milano Verde. It had
two problems:
1 The position of sunroof was high compared to the roof of the car.
2 When closing the sunroof I had to manually push the Wind spoiler
down to prevent the sunroof hitting it.

Repositioning and removing the sunroof is fairly simple after sliding back
the headliner panel. The procedure for disconnecting the headliner panel
from the metal sunroof is fairly good explained in "The Alfa 75 / Milano
Resource" on the Web. The description below is not complete!
In my case I slided the headliner back (I had to slightly push the panel
down at the back-end when the sunroof was still in tilted position, before
is was able to slide under the roof). And ultimately removed the sunroof to
get access to the mechanism to grease it.

The second problem appears to be a common problem with Milanos. Probably
that's the reason why the sunroof was mounted high in the past. There are
two fragile pieces that pus the spoiler down and those were bend upwards. My
recommendation is to mount some small pieces on it. However I tried to bend
them back downwards and the first one broke. After looking at it again
bending wouldn't have been sufficient anyway. 
My workaround was to remove the complete wind spoiler!

Success,
Bart

Don't try this on a 164, it would take a giant press and fixtures. 

Joe Bender-Zanoni

I had the same problem with my milano door seal. a applied a strip of a 1/4
inch adhesive backed foam weatherstrip to the top and leading edge of the
door. when the door is closed, the weather strip makes a nice tight seal
against the factory door seals.

Robert
New York
'92 164L

Date: Fri, 02 Jul 1999 19:56:10 -0700
From: Marc <thresh@netgate.net>
Subject: Re: Milano headliners

>My recommendation however is remove the headliner and drop it off at an
>upholstery shop for a non-amateur repair.  Of course dropping the car off
>with the upholstery shop may be the preferred method for some owners.
>
>Ken Stevenson               Dallas, Texas

I agree with Ken's recommendation.  It takes a while to do, but it doesn't
cost much to get a very nice replacement headliner that will last for quite
a while.  Take it out, remove all the plastic overhead control consoles,
brush off all the old glue and foam that has turned to dust, and let an
upholstery shop install the new liner.  It is well worth the effort.  As
Ken pointed out, everything except for the mirror is straight forward.  For
the mirror you just need to grab it and pull down and towards you very
hard.  To get the headliner out of the door just recline the passenger
seat.  You can remove all the clips holding the overhead consoles with a
couple of screwdrivers.  To install the mirror the handle end of a hammer
works well to pop it into place. 

Marc

 Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2001 23:22:39 +0930
   From: Jim McDougall <jsm@voidnet.com.au>
Subject: Re: Roof Trim Removal

G'day Nikos,
I took mine out of my T/S a week ago and got it recovered.
Undo all the hand grips
Pull off the rear view mirror and undo the mounting
Take off the sun visors
Pull out the reading lamps, centre and front
Take out any remaining plastic covers on the side trims and the rear and
remove screws
Undo the support screws above where the reading lamps were
The lining will now come out. Unplug wiring connectors.
Remove the headrest on the driver's seat and the lining will come out
through the passenger door
The switch banks come out with the lining. Remove the speed clips that
hold them on and the lining is then ready to take to your
trimmer.
Replace the switch housings temporarily back into the car
and strap the lining on top of the roof and off you go to the
trimmer.
It all goes back the reverse way and looks a whole lot better.

Good luck,
Jim Mc
 
 

rosenbaum@psi.ch wrote:
> 
> This is probably a stupid beginner question:
> I have scratches on my window of the back left door. I found
> a new glass, but now I do not know how to take off the
> interior door cover. I can not see any screws. Do I first have
> to take off the lever to raise/lower the window by just pulling
> like a maniac? And then?
> Thanks a lot!

There are two hidden screws holding the handle, behind a plastic strip. Then I
don't remember if there is a screw holding the lever, but it would be logical.
Then you just carefully remove the whole panel, there are lots of clips holding
it to the frame.
Anders Nilsson
-90 Alfa 75 2.0TS

Andy, you opened your sunroof too far...don't blame me, I didn't design 
it. Anyhow, you are gonna have to take the sunroof motor out and open it 
up and reset the "stop" position on the gears. If I remember correctly, 
there is a plastic cover on part of the motor, left rear I think; the 
rest of the motor housing is metal. Take off the plastic bit to get at 
the gears you need. When you open the sunroof too far, a 
nub on the gear hits a cutoff (for lack of a technical term) pin. You can 
also open it too far forward in the flip-up position. Knowing how far is 
too far in either direction is part of the mystique of owning a Milano. 
It doesn't take too long to remove the motor and reset it, but if you get 
it out and it doesn't make sense to you, give me a hollar.

Regards,
Adam
Philadelphia

Andy,

I recently had a similar problem with my sunroof but it was stuck in the full 
up position.  I liked to think of it as a downforce generator but it really didn't improve my handling. My solution, please be advised that this may not be the best way and you 
should wait at least 3 days for somebody on the digest to correct me, was to 
pop the interior panel covering the motor and then take a large screwdriver
and put it in the slot that you see in the bottomside of the motor assembly. 
The slot is at the bottom of a shaft that apparently goes to the gearbox.
Slowly turn the screwdriver, you may feel a small pop.  Try the switch. 
You may even notice that the sunroof moves as you turn the screwdriver.  I
would use extreme caution when trying this.

It worked for me....but my panel will continue to get stuck if I open the 
sunroof fully.
Good luck

Steven Silverstein
Marlborough, MA 

Ironically,  just after I explained to Andy Kress how to unstick the
sunroof I accidentally tilted up my sunroof all the way and it stuck open. 
As I popped the interior cover off of the motor area I noticed that there is 
a small gray adjustment screw on the bottom of the gearbox.  Surrounding
the screw are the symbols + ...I...-       Does anybody know anything about this 
adjustment detail?  Does it control the limit switch?  If so, which way do 
you turn it to prevent it from tilting too much? 

It is my guess that this is the travel limiter but would hate to "adjust" 
this without being sure.

Thanks

Steven Silverstein

FWIW, an update on my sunroof:
Symptoms: sunroof stuck open, actuating switch gave clunk in overhead 
(presumably from motor), and no motion of sunroof - either open or close.
Based on Adam Doherty's experience & cyber assessment, it was a good bet
that the motor had overshot it's limit switch stops.  This means taking the motor 
out, opening it & "adjusting" the stops.  Got part way through & realized i
needed more info. 
Went to visit Brian Shorey (bs to his friends) who has a disassembeled 
headliner/sunroof etc, etc. for inspection & experimentation (hell, Brian has 
a disassembled almost everything that Alfa built since 1971) - good thing I did.
Turns out the motor was bad - when pulled out, and actuated, it would shut 
itself off in the close mode, but continue to run in the open mode!  we 
couldn't figure out what was required to reset those stops, so...we took the 
cowards (I mean expeditious) way out & swapped in the "spare", lubed the 
track, and now "tutto va bene". 
This is actually a cool design.  The whole actuating mechanism is hidden, 
covered in the roof, and the motor's drive gear goes up into a hole in the 
roof.  The motor assembly (includes motor & "transmission") has a plastic 
cover that is held onto the motor ass'y by a couple of screws - removing that 
exposes a molded piece that resembels a number of "stacked" plastic wheels
of decreasing diameter.  They have raised plastic "pointers" molded into them
these are the limit switch cams.  Couldn't move this thing by hand, couldn't 
figure out which way was the right way to move them to correct my predicament 
- - ran away.  If anyone can shed some light on how to make this better,
I'd appreciate it.
A few pointers - all you need to do to remove the motor is to pry down the 
cover from the overhead.  It has a few tabs that go up & over the forward 
lip of the main console plastic housing & a snap fit on the trailing edge. 

The motor is held in by 2 phillips screws on the rear edge, and the forward
end has a slot that slides onto a threaded post, and nut fastens it securely. 
Can't really get at the phillips, they are covered by the rear section of 
the main overhead console.  Just loosened the console enough to pry it down
enough to get at the screws.  DO NOT TRY TO PULL OUT THE WHOLE MAIN
CONSOLE. It is fastened securely to the headliner by 2 posts (one on each side, about 
2/3 of the way forward) that are secured to the headliner by C clips - if you 
pull too hard, the posts snap right off, and now you have a real problem!! 

It all went pretty well, and pretty quickly thanks to help from digesti. 
Mille grazie.
Andy

Hi,

I just removed the door lock mechanism on the passenger side to fix it, but it
was the mechanical parts that fuzzed with me.

The central lock device is built together with the mechanical door lock in one
piece which has to be removed to get at it.

* Remove door side (two bolts in the handle, then pull carefully). The lock knob
is a special trick. The top of the knob can be opened, use a small (and short)
screwdriver and open it from the window side. Now you can unscrew the little
knob visible and remove it.

* The complete door lock mechanism is bolted with four bolts from the back of
the door. You will also need to loosen the levers from the inside opening
mechanism and the key cylinder, for that you need 10 inch fingers but it can be
done. All electrical connections are very nicely put on the inner side of the
door.

Hope this helps you, otherwise ask me for more details.

/Anders 
-90 Alfa 75 2.0TS  185.000 km
maarten@knot.nl wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Anybody know how to remove the central-lockingdevice from the door on
> driverside? It's mounted on the inside of the door itself and seems
> very hard to reach! The device is making an awful noise when being used
> (it still works though..). Thanx in advance!
> 
> Maarten

Gee, I do learn things from reading about other people's problems.  I've
been having trouble getting the driver's side door on my Verde to close 
properly.  Someone, Jorge?, mentioned to a GTV6 owner having a similar 
problem to tighten the allen-bolt on the "male" part of the door-lock 
mechanism.  Went home last nite, tightened it up and now I have a fully
working door. 

Ahhhhhh.... 

Kit 
Seattle 
88 Verde 

John,

The chrome piece should still be available from the Authorized Alfa
Parts dealers.
There are two manufactures for this part and you need to verify the
manufacture that goes with your specific grill.   Believe it or not,
there is a difference in the positioning of the retainer clips.
You need to look at the back of your existing grill kidney and see if there
is a manufactures mark.   I forget the two companies that produced these
parts.   I believe one manufacture marks their name (something Italian)
on the part and the other uses a logo, I believe it is a Greek letter.
If you have trouble, Keith at Alfas Unlimited can get the part for you.
 

Steve

     Hi Nelson, 

     I do not know how hard it was to remove the trim; as far 
     as I remember the 4 pieces on the doors are simply pushed 
     down, so pushing up should remove them. 

     The 4 parts on the boby are as far as I remember held in place by 
     nuts from the inside of the car, maybe helped a little by dubble 
     sided self-adhesive tape. 
     In any case, be carefull when removing the trim. 
     The trim on the boot is held in place by several nuts from the inside of 
     the boot lid. 
     He did not have to replace any parts. 
     Hope this will help ! 

     Best Regards, 
     John

   I just recieved my seat material today from Driving Ambition, Portland
Oregon (503) 238-6011. It's the right stuff, black and grey "insert",
and cost $90 per meter. I bought two meters and have enough to do both
front seats both back seats and some left over. Driving Ambition is
Recaro only. No afilliation etc.
   I'm Happy.
                                         Ken Hancock
                                         88 Verde
                                         69 GTV
From: AKress1948@aol.com
Subject: Re: Recaro material

the houndstooth center mat'l is called Black Monza.  It is allegedly out of 
production, but there seems to be plenty in stock.  costs ~ $95/yd.
Recaro dealers abound.  there's probably a Recaro web site somewhere, and you can get a local dealer list from them. bought mine from a local porsche specialty tuner. You'll need to special order.  they won't believe you at first, but have them check on for black monza w/ the US distribution ctr., they'll find it.  good luck.
Andy

Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2005 09:46:15 -0600
   From: "Peter Webb" <webb.p@comcast.net>
Subject: FW: [alfa] Recaro Avus fabric

Re: the Recaro fabric.  This was posted on the Alfa Digest earlier in this
year for sources of the material.  I hope the author doesn't mind me posting
it to this list.

-Peter


-----Original Message-----

Ok final update for any of those who care. I finally found someone to help
me out. First I want to thank everyone on the list who helped me out and
hopefully this message will be able to help others.

Ok, the details, the fabric is Black Avus, Recaro part number 049298. All
dealers are supposed to be able to order it for you, however there are quite
a few dealers who do not know who to contact at Recaro to order the fabric.
The fabric ships from Germany and plan on two weeks for it to arrive. You
are ordering actual fabric off Recaro's 'factory floor' which is part of the
problem I imagine.

FWIW according to the upholstery shop where I took my seats (front seats
only) plan on 4 meters, but ask your shop before purchasing, my shop said
'approx 3.5 yards' which is about 3.25 meters, and you have to buy by the
meter.

I called a fair amount of dealers, with not much success, but here are the
ones who came through and their specifics:

Auto-Mat inc. in NY, $100.00/meter (are they serious?)
note: took over a week for a return call
Phone:516-938-7373 contact: Tim

Speed & Truck World in Miami FL, $38.00/meter
note:They do not ship regularly and have no way to take payment over the
phone, cash or CC in store only
phone: 954-760-9922 contact: Neil

Northstar Motorsports in Barrington IL, $38.00/meter
note:this is where I ended up getting mine from, he had to check but came
through and had no problems selling to me or shipping to me.
phone: 800-356-2080

Driving Ambition in Portland OR, $40.00/meter
note: nice guy but didn't want to ship to me in FL but the only guy with a
clue about the Milano and Alfas. Perhaps in the future if someone needs
fabric, tell him that the other dealers are not much help
phone:503-238-6011

Bruce Sharer suggested:
Auto Sports Gallery
919-872-2002
Raleigh, NC

John Fox suggested:
Hugo at Sids Custom Upholstery
in Mountain View California
650-969-1539

Here is a link to Recaro's dealer list in the CA and US:
http://www.recaro-nao.com/PDF/DOWNLOAD/UNTERNEHMEN/Authorized_Dealer_List_Pu
blic.pdf

As I said, sorry for the long post and the US centric nature, but hopefully
this will save someone else a lot of pain and random calling.

Thanks
Graham Spencer
Tampa Bay FLA

 
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2005 11:08:15 -0500
   From: "Spencer, Graham" <graham.spencer@nielsenmedia.com>
Subject: RE: FW: [alfa] Recaro Avus fabric

No glad it's of use, but note this is the BLACK fabric. As mentioned
AFAIK Re-Originals is the only place to get the INSERT fabric. I had no
problem getting the insert but the black turned out to be quite elusive
to find. Go figure. 

Graham 

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Webb [mailto:webb.p@comcast.net] 
Sent: Thursday, January 27, 2005 10:46 AM
To: Alfa 75
Subject: [alfa75] FW: [alfa] Recaro Avus fabric


Re: the Recaro fabric.  This was posted on the Alfa Digest earlier in
this year for sources of the material.  I hope the author doesn't mind
me posting it to this list.

-Peter

> Dave Johnson wrote:
> Actually what you are referring to is a choke,

Yup, _that's_ the terminology I was looking for.  Gee, all those years in college
learning EE stuff for my CE degree and I still forgot!  Strangely enough, I
remember what elastic and inelastic demands are, in addition to why
estrogen exists.  Hmm, selective memory you think? :-) :-)
So, to those wanting to upgrade your Milano/75 stereos the following
info should be useful:
Front speakers:  stock = 5 1/4" paper cone, sounds terrible when new, unusable
after ten years in the door.  You can replace with the same size speaker but I have
comfortably installed 6 1/2" speakers mounted to the door itself (not the door
panel as per stock).  Sounds better, but since the front seat bolsters are in the
way, you only get a fraction of their power delivered to your ear.  Not much room
towards the hinge of the door since that's where the power window motor
lives, along with some structural bracing you don't want to cut up.
Rear speakers:  stock = 5 1/4" paper cone sitting in a hole about 6" square.  After
various attempts at putting in plate speakers and squeezing 6 1/2" speakers into
the said opening and not getting the desired results, I cut up the rear deck to
take 6x9"s.  Result?  Much improved bass response - even without cutting
the metal deck to allow a port into the trunk/box.  1991-1993 164 speaker grilles
work great to cover up your new 6x9" speaker installation.  Looks totally stock.
Amplifier location:  under the front seats, and in the trunk.  Mine lives
underneath the passenger seat (4 x 40W RMS) and the 6-disc CD changer lives under
the driver's seat.  Watch out for those fuel lines underneath the passenger seat.
Push them to one side and tape 'em down with duct tape or packing tape
to make sure they don't jiggle their way back to saw themselves with the amplifier
mounting screws.
Power supply:  best to put a big choke in line with the constant power
supply (pink wire) and a smaller choke on the ignition on wire (red & black). 
Lightning caps could help out with those putting in big amps.  Also make sure your
alternator has fresh brushes and a good voltage regulator on it (Fred Di has 'em for
$25 ppd). Nothing like having your lights dim when you have the lights, wipers,
rear demister, stereo, and fan(s) on during a dark and rainy night ...
My Milano/75 is a workhorse, and it has to function under some very
varied circumstances.  I'm happy to say that it's nice that it can also double
as a boombox when my mood calls for it.

Nizam

Lift the bottom up at the front, this might require a bit of a tug
depending if you little plastic clips are broke or not. Once the bottom
is out the back is held in with three screws, all on the bottom, one on
each side and a bigger one in the middle. Once the screws are out the
back slides up releasing two pins at the top. When reinstalling remember
to put the emergency trunk release thingy somewhere you'll remember.

Carson
 

Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 21:22:11 -0400
From: eparise@mail.intelos.net
Subject: Milano rear seat removal

No mention of the interior or things like seats in the workshop manual; 
but, does anyone know how to remove the rear seat properly, without 
damaging the unit? Thanks
Ed Parise
Churchville, VA

 
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2001 17:52:33 -0000
   From: nikos_public@deltatechniki.gr
Subject: Rear Panel & Rear Seats Removal Directions

REAR SEATS & REAR PANEL REMOVAL DIRECTIONS

To remove the rear panel (behind the rear seats' headrests) you must 
first remove the rear seats completely.

To remove the rear seats :

1. Pull upwards the front edge of the horizontal part of the seat. 
There are 2 spikes that hold it in to place, one on the left and the 
other on the right.
2. Once the spikes are disengaged, slide the seat to the front and 
take out of the car. (When it's time to put the seats back in first 
look that the spikes are over the holes before pushing the seat down).
3. Unscrew the 3 screws that hold the bottom part of the vertical 
seats. There are 2 at the sides and one bigger at the center.
4. Once the screws are removed, the bottom of the seat will be 
hanging. Lift the whole seat upwards to disengage 2 hidden spikes at 
the top. 
5. Pull the seat belts out of the way and the seat will come off the 
car. CAREFUL not to touch the seat to the body of the car as there 
are 3 metal blades protruding.

To remove the rear panel :

1. Unscrew one screw that is inside the glove compartment (V6 & TB 
models only?). To do that, it is necessary to take off the carpet in 
ceiling of the boot, because the nut of this screw is accessible 
through there only. This is easy, just pull the 4 spikes that hold 
the carpet in place.
2. Go back inside the car and unscrew 2 small screws that hold the 
panel near where the seat spikes where.
3. Lift the forward edge of the panel a little bit and pull it 
towards you.
4. Once you feel it became free from the rear (there are 4 tongue 
like catches there), lower the front edge and continue sliding the 
panel towards you.

That's it. Good luck.

Nikos

I haven't used the Honda paint, but have found a good match with Duplicolor
Charcoal Grey, DS CC 331.

Mike in Tomball, TX

G'day t kirton,
I can't help you with getting a tow bar, but I have fitted a genuine one
to my 75 and I doubt whether anything but a specific 75 one (or a copy)
would fit. It fits vertically up to the very rear of the boot floor
between the petrol tank and the exhaust pipe and then curves around the
bottom of the plastic bumper with minimum reduction to ground clearance.
The tow ball extension bolts onto this and it looks like a huge phalic
symbol with a 50mm knob. Inside the boot there are some reinforcing
plates, one of which goes the full length of the lower floor of the
boot. Because of the AR Control the electrical connections are a bit
more involved than older type cars. A seperate power supply has to be
run from the battery +ve to an electronic relay box (seperate purchase)
mounted in the boot.
All the trailer functions are activated by this relay which obtains the
signals from the car rear lights (via connecting wires).
Hope this helps to select the correct one.
Regards
Jim

Darren.
I had the same problem on my 3.0 when I bought it. So here's some
advice. The sunroof has two guides, one either side. One of these has snapped, if both had snapped the sunroof would go nowhere. Do not use the sunroof until it is fixed as the other guide may break and the roof
become jammed in any position. The reason that it scratches the paint is
because the guide is broken. I repaired it myself, it took awhile, and requires two people. Firstly you need to drop the roof lining. The sunroof needs to be unclipped from above. This then allows the upholstered part to be slid back whilst keeping the metal part of the roof open slightly.
Next remove the top slidding part of the sun roof and lift out from
outside. The upholstered part  can now be bought forward and simply unclips. Next drop the whole cage unit of the
sunroof and rest it on the front seats. You should now see the broken
guide, I suggest you replace both, they cost me £17.79 for both, part no's 60740928, 60740927. These can be slid out by removing the motor, and filing away at the end of the sunroof to allow them to come out of
the tracks. The interior part can now be re-upholstered. I used spray
adhesive, but found this melted in heat, so resorted to a glue gun. My sunroof now works perfectly. I would also suggest you change the seal around the sunroof whilst its in bits, part no 60591951, £47.43. Its a
couple of years ago since I did this, so if you require further advice
I'd have to check abit more. It is very time consuming, and alot harder than it sounds, but I figured it all out myself, just couldn't use the car for a month.
Hope this helps.
        Paul
            87 v6 3.0 

OR "HOW TO ADD REMOTE CENTRAL LOCKING TO A 75"

1. Drop the fuse box out of its nested position. (1 philips head 
screw, middle of lower edge)

2. Remove the coin box next to the steering wheel. It snap fits on 
it's lower edge. (Dont pick out the little square of carpet looking 
for screws. there arn't any)

3. The actual contol box is still not visible, but it's holding 
bracket is. Release it by unscrewing the m6 nut under the coin box. 
It does look like the box on the alfa manual "electrics/52.jpg"

4. Pull the control box out through the coin box hole.

5. Splice your receiver box (alarm) into the following wires on the 
control box:

Control Unit    Receiver Box
Black (earth)-  [common and earth]
Red/black trace [Power]
Violet -        [up signal]
Brown -         [Down signal)

I tucked the control box half under the carpet, just above the 
accelerator pedal. (And this still left room for the aftermarket 
cruise control box above the brake).

All up, 45 minutes. But would be closer to 25, if I had had a 
guide....

Regards,
SteveB

I found the manufacturer of the motor, but they only sell it to 
manufacturers.  It is a Mabuchi FC-280SD.  I called several places, 
and went to many electronics & hobby stores, but no luck.  Does 
anyone know where I could get one.  Thank you for your help.

Nelson
'87 Milano Gold 2.5

Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 18:30:57 -0000
   From: "Paul Barnfather" <plb@clanger9.demon.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Central door locking MOTOR replacement

Maplin electronics sell a direct fit replacement for only
12UKP! They are sold for a general-purpose "central locking kit", so
I presume you can get them from many motor accessory stores.

See http://www.maplin.co.uk/, look for stock code CR42.
I see they have another (cheaper) motor, stock code YD79. I haven't
tried
this one,
but the one above works great.

Dick in Wing COuntry (Rochester), can't get his sunroof motor out. Dick, 
you can get a screw-driver in there, though its tight. Anyhow, when you 
get the motor out i'm pretty sure I know what the problem is--had it 
happen to me a couple times. The motor is fine, its just that you likely 
opened the sunroof too far in EITHER direction. There is a set of gears 
underneath the plastic cover section of the motor housing. If you remove 
this cover and leave the motor hooked up to the switch you'll be able to 
check its operation. To reset the limits, take the plastic cover off and 
note the position of the plastic gears. From memory, there are several 
stages on the interior of the the gears at differing heights--if these 
trip, it cuts your motor off to save you from burning it out i suppose. 
Anyhow, you have to take the main gear off and reposition it. Check it
to 
see if it operates, then refit. Sorry I can't be more descriptive and 
exact, but its been awhile since I had to do that....

Regards,

Adam

<< Am trying to remove a Milano window motor unit and it looks damn near 
impossible to do without the old heat wrench. Anyone know how sane people do 
this sort of thing with minimal destruction? Glass seems to be attached
to a strut that won't come out. Have removed every nut on motor and strut. 
Motor is loose now but that's all. >>

First of all, you're assuming there are any sane people reading the digest. 
 =)
I'm thinking maybe you have the window all the way up and maybe haven't see 
that there are two bolts that hold the window to the window regulator. Put 
the window down half way and you'll see what I'm talking about.  I just
did mine and there is nothing in there that should cause it to stick. 
  The glass is glued (?) into a metal bracket, but that bracket bolts to 
another bracket on the window regulator.  The rest of the regulator
assembly is attached to the door in 5 places -- 3 bolts hold the motor, 
one bolt attaches from underneath the door, and one bolt holds the 
regulator to a flange inside the door (about an inch above where the 
door handle would engage the rod, and back about an inch).  If your 
window is up all the way you can still access the two bolts that hold 
the glass to the regulator via two holes in the door that are just 
above this fifth bolt.
Good luck

Bryan Carter
Olympia, WA

If one is happy with MACCO/Earl Scheib paint jobs, fine, but a ballpark price
for automotive paint is around $100 (and up) per gallon, and if one adds
ballpark hourly rates for semiskilled labor, shop overhead and franchise
fees one wonders what they manipulate to get a $560 'estimate'. I wouldn't
count on getting much.

 Good luck,

 John H.

Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2001 21:22:45 EDT
From: Fltrplntman@aol.com
Subject: Milano hood latch

Hi Adam!  Long time..     I had problems with my hood latch twice since I
bought it.  It seems the cable slips if you YANK on the handle just a little
too hard.
        Now heres the fix!   To get the hood open without the cable, you
have to remove the grille. This is quite easy. The hardest thing is getting
the Alfa Romeo emblem off. Its mounted it plastic grommets so it will come
off. Just slide it straight out by pulling with your finger tips. But be
gentle, the emblem is plastic. At the top of the recessed area for the emblem is
a screw. Remove it.  Then stick a few fingers from each hand into the slots of
the grille. Slowly and gently pull  the grille striaght forward. ( its a little tough , but it just unsnaps). Then you have access to the hood
latch cable. Just loosen the clamping screw and pull the cable to the
passenger side while pushing the screw assy. to the driver side.  Tighten the
screw, and test the hood latch. After it is satisfactory, replace the grill.
All that is left is to push the emblem back on. VIOLA!!! All fixed.    
        Now the problem with the emmissions is out of my league!!!!    

  Hope I helped..     Tim Timko

Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 21:16:49 +0100
   From: Andreas Øwre <andreas.owre@cellnetwork.no>
Subject: RE: has anyone seen the article on how to...

I saw it on a site some time ago. Here is what I did:

1: Unscrewed the bastard, and removed the wires to the lic.plate lights
2: Took a look and wondered what the heck they were thinking of when
they designed this crap.
3: Laid the strip on a bench where I supported it so it stayed in its
slightly rounded form.
4: Removed all parts of rust, debris and other parts that weren't
snowing of it.
5: Sprayed it with WD-40 and tried to wiggle out the remaing parts which
was no success.
6: Tried with some swears and raw violence, and realized that the only
way to remove the shit was to crack the edges holding the strip i place.
7: Took a Stanley knife and removed the edges, and the whole mess was
of. 
8: Took some sandpaper and smoothed the backside and the edges.
9: Placed the fixed strip on the boot lid and marked the screw holes
10: Drilled some 2,5 mm holes in the strip
11: Found some self tapping screws
12: Had silicone in the holes
13: Took som flat rubber O-rings/fittings and placed them on the holes
14: Screwed the strip back on (after removing the rust from the lid and
painted it)

It took 3 or 4 hours.

It looks nice, and the lid pops up when i open it. Mine was awful, you
might be luckier than me.

Good luck.

Andreas Owre
1986 AR 75 2.0

Date: Tue, 14 May 2002 09:42:06 +0100
From: "Nick Koleszar" <npk@btinternet.com>
Subject: 75/Milano Centre console removal/heater control replacement

Ok

I managed to get this done. Thanks to everybody who helped and here are my
findings (this is from recent memory so apologies if I suddenly forgot
anything):

If you open the storage binnacle on the transmission tunnel (behind the
handbrake), you need to prise up the carpeted card at the bottom.
Underneath, you will find a long screw that needs to be removed. Remove the
rear ashtray. You will see 3 large screws. Remove them. Now the cigarette
lighter will come out and you can disconnect the cables. Once this is done,
the entire binnacle come off. (you'll have to prise up the mirror control
panel and unplug the cable.) Underneath, towards the rear of the binnacle
space, you will see a huge nut that needs removing.

Now, there are 4 screws (or should be, often one or more are missing) that
need to be removed. One on each side of the transmission tunnel, just ahead
of the gear stick. Then, there are 2 more, one on either side of the centre
console, around behind the heater controls. You should see them with their
heads facing down.

Once all this is done, you put the gear stick in reverse, slide the
tranmission tunnel console back enough and you can pull out the lower
section of the centre console. The heater controls will remain in place.

Now there should be one screw on either side of the heater control unit,
holding it in place. There is also a thin galvanised piece of metal which
loops up behind the centre vents. On my car, this was only attached to the
heater controls. I suspect the other end is also suppose to be screwed to
the heater unit but not sure. If you can remove the central vents, you
should be able to see better.

Once you undo the maximum of three retaining screws holding the heater
controls in place, it should kind of swing down so you can see the back, but
there are 3 mechanical cables running to the back of the heater controls and
they will offer a certain amount of resistance. There are also 6 wires
connected at the back.

I worked my way from left to right, removing the control cables. By juggling
the positions of the 3 large rotary knobs, you can make it easier to get to
the back and disconnect the cables. Remember that a certain logic exists and
you will have to properly arrange the knob positions, extensions of the
cables and position of the cable sheaths when you put it all back
together.

Once you have disconnected all the cables and unclipped them from the unit,
you have 6 wires remaining to unplug. Two brown with white stripe power the
bulbs inside and it doesn't matter in what order they are connected. Then
there are 4 connected to the fan speed switch. Make a note of which colour
wire goes where.

Once you have it out, have a good look at the back of the control unit and
compare its operation and appearance to any replacement unit.

>From behind, you should see that for the large rotary controls, when they
are in their most counter-clockwise position, you can look through a hole in
the black plastic of the actuator arm and the hole of the white plastic
shaft should be lined up. I hope that makes sense!

I had to dismantle my control unit to alter the position of some of the
controls. Each of the shafts which run through the body of the control has a
sprung retaining tang which is visible and accessible and some positions in
the control's movement. Using a small screwdriver, you can push in the tang
enough to release the shaft. Be careful not to push too hard and break the
tang. Also, be careful, it is possible to put the control back togetherso
it is in the wrong position and you cannot access the tang to correct things.

If you are going to separate the two halves of the heater control unit, you
need to pull off the knob on the fan speed control. Be very careful with
this as the unit is quite old and it is possible to damage the insides of
this electronic component. I think that's what's happened to mine now and I
have to test it with an ohm-meter, probably to confirm this has happened.

outgoing mail scanned for viruses by Norton.
==========================================
Nick Koleszar : npk@btinternet.com
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