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• Rugh engineering
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• Broken fasteners
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• S/N's
• Converting 4cyl to 6
• Cardisc on Win2k
• More about s/n's
• Even more
• 75 production
• alfa digest search
• Limited editions
• 164 engine install

Hi all,

I have written a program that converts CarDisc CD-ROM
databases to HTML format.  It is now available for
immediate download at

  http://www.retail.com/cd2html

Let me know what you think.

Regards,
- - Tom
thomasw@retail.com

The ABS, turn the key to run, not start and all the lights should come on.
there is an abs light up with the turnsignal indicator this must come on
and then go out in 2-5 seconds. If it doesn't come on at all take the ash
tray right out and remove the two screws that are behind it and gently work
the caution panel out. It has two clips at the top. Use a good light bulb
from one of the other positions, they rock out from the top or the bottom,
you will need a small blade screwdriver. So does the abs light go out in
2-5 sec in the run position. If it doesn't walk away now. When I bought
mine the light at the back was missing and since my wife saw no light we
kept going. Mine was just a wheel speed sensor but a master cylinder is
1800 bucks......
With the car still in run and the abs light out press the brake pedal
several times. You should get at least 6 pumps before the electric pump
kicks in. If it doesn't the car needs a brake pressure accumulator (180
bucks)

The engine:
Either there is recent history of a timing belt, tensioner and water pump
or it needs them. If there are no bills you need to get it done. All these
parts are a scheduled maint item every 30,000 miles.
Hot idle oil pressure should be good.
Pull the vapour seperator off and look at what is inside. It is right
behind the distributor on the valve cover.
Check the coolant for oil, the best is to pull out the float which is
beside the cap on the expansion tank. This is a pressurized bottle, be
careful. once the float is out look in there as it is hard to clean out if
they are hidding stuff by changing the coolant a couple of days ago.
Changing the head gaskets on an abs milano is a BIG job.
There should be little or no oil leaks
Pull out all the spark plug cables from the head and look for oil
It should start instantly, the colder the better
Look at the power steering hoses, hopfully they are dry, they usually get
cooked by the left hand exhaust manifold.
After your drive open the power steering reservoir, the fluid should be
clear, no bubbles
Once it is fully warm on your drive, punch it, all the way to yellow line
in two to three gears, stop grinning and listen for misses.
Grasp the water pump pulley and wiggle, either some or none.

Under the front:
The boots on the steering rack should be dry and in one piece.
Check wheel bearings, put your hands at the top and bottom, wiggle. There
is either none or some, some is bad. Milanos are known for less than the
best bearings.
Castor arm bushings, at the front of the front fender, like big rubber
washers. Easy to change and cheap. If they look like shit, chances are the
rest of the bushings are not the best.
Shocks, push down a fender without bouncing and let go, it should go up and
settle.
The power steering takes atf Dextron. If there is red fluid down there that
is what it is.

Under the Back:
Wheel bearings, wiggle same as above, some or none, this is an expensive
fix and is hard for the do-it-yourselfer
Brake calipers, tend to leak at the hand brake mechanism. Calipers can be
expensive.
Driveshaft dougnuts, there are three and are hard to get a good look at. If
one is crack all the way or most of the way through it is toast, If you
change one you will change three.
Leaking clutch slave
Cracked CV boots
Exhaust
Rust, If there is some this is where it will start usually, rear wheel
wells and suspension mounts

A couple of sites
http://www.gtv6.org/
http://reality.sgi.com/sikand_mti/milano.html

This does not replace standard used car precautions.
Having said all that, I truly enjoy my car

Carson Damm
Ft. McMurray, Alberta
Canada

OK, I actually called a knowledgeable parts person (a rarity) who says
that the O-ring style stem seal is used on all the small block Chevy
(SBC) motors, including the 350, but only before 1986. So, presumably,
if you asked for a set of 1980 Chevy 350 stem seals, you would have
enough to do 2 Alfa 4-cyl head gaskets, with a few spares to account
for clumsiness. ;=) Some parts places sell them by the piece, so you
could just buy 6.

File this one away! 1980 Chevy 350 valve stem seals make great Alfa
head gasket O-rings!!

Wendy Wood & Carson Damm wrote:
> 
> So if I go to the chevy guy what do I ask for. 350,302,292,4.8?
> 
> Carson Damm

Rugh Engineering
14190 N.W. McNamee Rd.
Portland, OR. 97231
(503) 621-3794
******************

Hi Guys,
If you want graphics/scripts in vectorial format go to:
http://www.oufti.com/alfa
Click on the MISCELLANEOUS at on the top bar
Then scroll down to vectorial logos on the miscellaneous page.
Most of the work were done by Lucas, the 33 16V owner and other 33 owners.
They look really good, great job you guys.
Zamani

The Alfa pedigree:

Sig. Elvira Ruocco,
Centro Documentazione
Alfa Romeo
Viale Alfa Romeo
I-20020 Arese (MI)
ITALY
Fax (+39) 0 29 31 57 46 This is the correct number since July 1st
- -98 
It will take anything from four days to three months. They answer 
in either italian or English. Remember to type the correct VIN. 
You can reach Elvira Ruocco at elvira.ruocco@fiat.com.

Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 08:28:07 -0500
From: Mike Valant <mev4474@texas.net>
Subject: a 3M product called Finessit...

I have used a version of this product sold as "3M Finess-it II". It is
an excellent product, and it can bring chalky paint
back up to a beautiful standard, although it is usually used to gloss up
a new or nearly new paint finish after hand-sanding.
My recommendation for badly-chalked paint is to start with 3M Finess-it
II, then go to 3M Perfect-it Pad Glaze,
then rub in some 3M Imperial Hand Glaze, and then top off with your
favorite deep-gloss wax. It is a lot of work,
but, if the paint is saveable, it is all worth the effort. Note that
Finess-it II works best with a buffer pad, and you MUST be
careful not to "burn" the sharp corners and edges on your Milano. It
won't be nearly as risky as compounding would be,
though. I have used the above regimen several times on my Giulia Super
with excellent results.
MeV

massimo.dellort-@italtel.it wrote: 
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/alfa75/?start=228
> 
> In 1992, to comamorate the end of the production run, ALFA produced a
> special edition of the 75  2.0 TS.  These cars were recognizeable by
> the Recaro seats and special wheels.  Does anybody know if these cars
> were a numbered series?  Is there some way of authenticating cars of
> this series.  Does anybody know the chassis numbers of these cars for
> instance?
> 
> I am interested in buying a 75 from this series and want to know how to
> recognize a genuine end of production series car. 
> 
> Is there someone out there (living around Rome, Italy)who wants to sell
> such a car?  Please get in contact SOON.  You can call me on 06 51 60
> 08 72.  Or 
> e-mail me. on the address given here and on 
> 
>                     nalin@patinayake.freeserve.co.uk
> Ciao,
> Sena
> 
In 1992 A.R. produced special edition three of 75 model:

   75 INDY 1.8 ie
   75 T.S. 2.0 ie Allestimento Sportivo Numerato
   75 TURBO 1.8 Allestimento Sportivo Numerato.

About 2.0 T.S., this model has Recaro seats, special weels
(design like SZ) and a silver plate inside whit the number
written. In fact T.S. and TURBO was numbered (3000xT.S. and
only 1000xTURBO).
I think wen Alfa Romeo became Alfa Lancia (Fiat), the chassis
numbers are not divided per models (number XXXX may be a TURBO
model, XXXX+1 may be a T.S., XXXX+2 a 3.0V6, and so on without
logic order). So you can't identify A.S.N. model from chassis
number.
I can give you more information, I have a 75 TURBO A.S.N.
(n. 959/1000).
Ciao 
 Massimo

Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 00:51:32 EDT
From: PeteLaurel@aol.com
Subject: finally found a book on AR sedans

About a jillion years ago I posted looking for a book on Alfa Romeo sedans.

Maybe AlfaBill put the bug in the right ear while on that side of the pond 
because John Tipler has just authored a nice softbound book on the subject.

Although all black and white, it is a well put together book with lots of 
sedan related material. From 2600's to 1900's to 156's. And page 113 has a
picture of what I'd like our Milano to look like, except that we want to run 
it on the street. By the way, I think the hood on this car is offered by Tom 
Zat. There is also nice coverage on the BTCC and DTM cars.
So consider adding this book to your collection! The particulars are:
" Alfa Romeo Sporting Saloons," John Tipler, 1999, ISBN 0-7509-2078-5,
Sutton Publishing Limited, Glouscestershire, GL5 2BU.
Oh, and don't think that I don't have any interest in promoting this book. 
Although I am in no way officially linked to John Tipler, the Sutton group,
or even a local book store, I love these cars and if the good word spreads 
more throughout the world then we'll all be better off.
Alfa Romeo Nuts are the binding force of the universe!

Sincerely,
Peter Lundquist

 Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 22:16:34 -0700
From: Alfa Romeo Search and Rescue Society <alfabill@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Digest Alfa owners picture page.

I am setting up a webpage for Digesters to show off their cars, and a
short description. so if you have a scanned or digital pic of your car,
less than 100k please, forward it to mailto:mastro@gte.net and i will
add it to the page.
While there is nothing on the page yet, it will be located at 
http://mastroalfa.com/digest.htm
Please include your name and a little info on your car(s)

AlfaBill

Following my posting on december 25th, I've had several requests for
details on block heaters, so I thought I'd post the details on the digest
list.
The heater I bought for my dad is a Kenlowe Hotstart Preheating system. It
consists of a small heater unit with integral pump. It is fitted between
the two heater hoses, and when in use both heats the coolant in the engine
and pumps it around the engine, ensuring proper distribution of the warmth.
The size of the heater/pump is roughly 2'" wide, 5" high and 3 or 4" deep.
It is connected to a plug, which in turn is mounted somewhere on the car or
under the bonnet. It comes complete with mounting bracket, hoses, hose
clips, nuts & bolts, underbonnet power lead, plug and socket, and
instructions. All you need (in theory) is a plug and a piece of power lead
(flex?) to connect it to a mains socket. I found that getting all the air
out of the system was difficult, so I made up an additional air bleed screw
in the top heater hose, but this may not be necessary on different cars.
The car it was fitted to is a Mitsubishi Shogun/Pajero with a 2.8 liter
turbodiesel. It takes about 30 minutes to warm the engine from stone cold
to 85 degrees C (and this engine is one BIG lump of iron!). My dad uses a
timer to switch the heater on in the morning. It improves the running of
the engine so much that he not only uses it during winter but regularly in
summer as well. It has lasted two years now, and is working faultlessly.
On his previous Pajero my dad had a swedish heater fitted, which apparently
was also used by Volvo for the Scandinavian countries. This heater relied
on the thermosyphon effect to circulate the coolant, needed a looong time
to get the engine to operating temperature, and broke down within one year
due to corrosion from the outside. So guess which I would recommend... 
The cost of the system was gbp137,22 plus gbp13,00 for p&p. In my view not
expensive considering the quality of the heater and the fact that it comes
with everything you will need. I ordered direct from Kenlowe in the UK, but
there may be distributors elsewhere. The address is:
Kenlowe LTD
Burchetts Green
Maidenhead, UK
Fax   +44 1628 823451
If necessary I can get a phone number from my stacks of paper. I don't
believe they have a webpage.

Hope this is of use to somebody somewhere.
Best, Jaap Bouma (Netherlands)
'87 GTV6 2.5 Grand Prix

Responding to Carson Damm's query in AD7-332 about block heaters and such,
Fred replied in AD7-336 that "If Alfa Romeo engineers thought for one
moment
that engine block heaters would ever be necessary, I think they would have
made provisions for such." Happily, they did. It was part of what Alfa
called
the "Arctic Package - designed for cold weather operation to insure driver
comfort, prompt start-up and safe driving."
The kit consisted of:
1. Driver and front passenger seat heaters- switch operated to keep
occupants
warm until cockpit reaches a comfortable temperature.
2. Engine heater- 110 volt heating element plugs into household current to
maintain safe temperature of engine fluids.
3. Battery heater- 110 volt heating pad sits under battery and maintains a
35
degree temperature,
4. Windshield Washer Fluid De-icer- Switch operated sheathing surrounds
washer
fluid lines and maintains 35 degree temperature.

They were listed in the 1986 accessories catalog as #8659 for the Milano,
8661
for the Spider, and 8662 for the GTV-6.

Farther on in the catalog there were a Milano handling package (sway bar,
shocks, torsion bars and rear springs) and a sexy modular-look 7" x 15" OZ
wheel, which should gladden the hearts of many. Haven't gotten to the
Zender
Kit yet-(Unfortunately there is also a truly weird five-spoke directional
extractor wheel which I have, fortunately, never seen on a car).

Cordially, 
John H. 

Date: Thu, 09 Dec 1999 10:20:49 +0100
From: Luca <nodoubt@libero.it>
Subject: 75/Milano HISTORY

Found an issue (3/92) of the italian car mag AutoCapital containing
a date by date 75/milano chorno-history. 
I think it's worth sharing with ya all, so here it come (Translated
ofcourse):

- -May 1985
the 17th the new "75" is uncovered. It come from the "K1 project" began 
in early 80s as the evolution of "Giulietta" of which it keeps the 2,51m
step (wheel's center to wheel's center distance, I'm not sure about the
english word for it), the double shaft brillant engine, and the rear end
with TRANSLAXE system, that's also known as "DE DION" bridge, with brakes
and gear all in one with diff.
Versions available are: 
1.6 (1570cc, 110hp@5800rpm, 180kph)
1.8 (1779cc, 120hp, 190kph)
2.0 (1962cc, 128hp, 195kph)
2.0 TD (1995cc, 95hp, 175kph, turbodiesel)
2.5 Quadrifoglio Verde (6 Cylinders,2492cc, 156hp, 210kph)
Prices were between 18.5 and 30 millions Lire.
Optionals (in all but the 2.5QV): power steering, electric windows, 
centralized locking, air conditioning, opening roof.

- -March 1986
The 1.8 Turbo joins the 75 range: it's a 1779cc, 155hp, 210kph, 0-100kph 
in 7.7sec, equipped with INTERCOOLER, Garrett T3 turbine and Bosch EFI).
Price was 29,000,000 ITL.
Outside, it differs from the other for larger fender (made with in 
plastic), 6 1/2 rims, and front and back buffers painted as the car.
Interiors are the same as the 2.5 QV.
Still in '86, it comes the 75 Milano, made for USA market. It has the 2.5
V6
engine, with EFI, catalized, and it offers 154hp, with a top speed of
205kph.
This Milano is made in 4 versions: Quadrifoglio Argento, Quadrifoglio Oro,
Quadrifoglio Platino and Quadrifoglio Verde (the most poweful);

The versions with more prestige got leather interiors, air cond, ABS,
power steering... that were all optionals on the others. All got 4 electric
windows, anatomical front seats, and external as standard USA requires
(ie those reflecting panels on the sides, close to front and rear end).
At TORINO showroom, there's the prototype of the 75 SportWagon, made by
Rayton Fissore. A nice project that will have no future, for several
reasons, least but not last the crisis that ended in merging to FIAT.

- -March 1987
At Ginevre showroom, Alfa shows the 2.0 Twin Spark, using the experience
of the GTA: two spark plugs per cylinder, EFI and automatic phase
variation.
Outside it has the larger fenders like the 75Turbo, it has the aerodynamic
plastic parts under the doors' line, new front spoiler, and "antiturbo"
at front windows. Interiors is much better, more detailed, a newer steering
wheel (Replacing the TERRIBLE old one). New gauges graphic.  The 2.0
TwinSparks
offers 146hp and top speed is 205kph.
Meanwhile, the 6 cylinders improves and becomes "3.0 America" (2959cc,
185hp,
220kph), using the experience made developing the Milano for USA market.
Externals are very detailed, with painted buffers and alloy rims.
Stock there's a self locking diff (25%) that was optional for the Twin
Spark).
Optional: leather interiors, opening roof, air cond. Price was 36,700,000
ITL.
with air cond.

- -May 1987
It's the 1.8 Turbo Evoluzione's time. Made in 500 units for omologation for
"Gruppo A" (racing)... it has aerodinamics parts all over, suspensions and 
relative set up made for racing, and power was about 280hp in ALFA CORSE
modified
version. Stock version had the same Turbo engine of the normal Turbo
version.

- -Summer 1987
1.8 turbo becomes 1.8 Turbo America, looking as the 3.0. 
Price decreases by 2,000,000 ITL (26.885.000ITL) to enhance sellings.

- -Autumn 1988
Two new versions are on the market: 1.8 IE, a 1779cc with Bosch Motronic
EFI, and phase variating, with the same power and performances of the 1.8
fed with carbs. The other new version is a 2.4TD, Turbodiesel with 110hp
and
185kph top speed. Outside, the 1.8 has the rear spoiler, th 2.4 looks
like the Twin Spark.  New seats for both and new gauges graphic.
All the 75 version get a new front end (that plastic part between lights)
remembering older Alfas, and new MONOCHROME rear optical group.
Optional: ABS.

- -Autumn 1989: debut of the 1.6IE, the 1600 with EFI, 105hp, 180kph.

- -Spring 1990: The Turbo version becomes QUADRIFOGLIO and gains 10hp
(165hp
and 212kph). 3Hp more even for the 3.0 V6 (222kph). Meanwhile it becomes
available the whole 75 range with catalist exhaust for European Market.

- -April 1991: the 1.8IE is made in "INDY" version with seats and interiors
in sport looking.
The 1.8 Turbo Quadrifoglio and the 2.0 Twin Spark are made in a limited
edition (declared "FOR COLLECTORS ONLY", as Alfa says). They will be
respectively made in 1000 and 3500 units. Exclusive design alloy rims,
new design for mirrors, painted as the rest of the bodywork, front fog
lites,
RECARO sport seats, new internal doors covers; gear box lever, and steering
wheel are covered with leather. A special plate, made in silver, attached
in the gauges zone, shows the progressive number. Available colors are:
red, black, cold white, metal dark gray, metal light gray.
On the mechanic side, there's, stock, the self locking diff and power
steering.

- -January 1992:  New born in Alfa: the 155 that will replace the 75.
Meanwhile Alfa keeps making the 1.6IE and the 2.0 TD only, out of the
whole serie. These two versions will be with buffers and mirrors painted
as the car, rear spoiler, anatomical seats (all similar to the 2.0 TS).
In these years, Alfa made 380,000 Alfa75, 260,000 of 'em sold in ITALY.

ciao, I hope ya all enjoyed the story :-)

nodoubt, 
937 landpilot
"A lifetime isn't enough"
937RS2, 75 Turbo, RM250

Keith Kelly writes: 
>> ... As is my usual luck, things went downhill from there. 
I then broke off a drill bit in one screw and broke off an 
"easy out" in the other screw. Now I'm screwed! << 

I've had some luck removing the remains of a broken easyout 
with a Dremel tool with a very small carbide tip. I think 
they cost about $3 a bit and you will probably go thru a few. 
It makes a mess of the surrounding aluminum too, but this 
can be repaired. 

Take a look at the article "Threaded Fastener Facts," by Andy 
Pugh at the i Saluti website: 

   http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/3837/thrdfast.html 

I think the sections on "damaged fasteners" and "broken-off 
drills, taps and stud extractors" does a good job of summarizing 
your options at this point. 

Good luck, 

Rich Hirsch 
Editor, i Saluti, St Louis AROC 
Website: http://www.catenary.com/isaluti

On 12 Apr 00 at 16:10, <koleszar@netcomuk.co.uk> wrote:

> I am mulling a 75/Milano project over in my sick little mind.

Oh Dear, me too, though my plans don't go very far at the moment!

> Get a cheap 75 which needs work. Restore the shell and have it
> prepared to as close to race-strength as financially and practically
> possible (seam-welding, custom cage?). Consider light-weight front
> wings (US - fenders) and bonnet (US- hood) to make up for the V6
> lump.

Some of the cheapest 75's at the moment are the late model 
twinsparks, a nice 1992 one with rust / ding free bodywork should be 
=A31500 or less. It would be preferable to get one that was pre-cat, as 
this should give you more room to play with aftermarket injection 
systems etc etc. Strip, weld, spray, cage, lighten. I'd consider 
lightweight GRP panels for bonnet & bootlid. Battery to the boot as 
well to help lighten the nose.

> Rebuild the gearbox as necessary to work well and handle more power.
> Re-build/modify gear linkage to work like it should. Use rosejoints
> or simply spend loads of time fiddling with it?

I guess it depends on how many ponies you throw at it. The box & 
propshaft don't seem to be *that* strong especially if your talking a 
30% or more increase in power. One specialist I talked to recommended 
replacement with F*rd C*sworth based system. I can see the sense, but 
the thought of it makes me shudder :-<

> Fit a 24v 3.0 from a newer car. I love the overlaid valve gear
> noises this motor makes and it has more power. And it looks great.
> Consider the various tweaks to the motor such as traditional
> displacement increase, cams, mgmt., etc., as well as
> turbo/supercharger/nitrous.

> Basically, I want a BMW M3/M5 but with Italian flair and that V6
> noise and perhaps slightly tighter for track-days.

Cams & a good aftermarked management system should easily see a 
reliable 270bhp (up from the standard 230bhp of the 164 cloverleaf) 
I've regularly seen 300bhp quoted.

Interestingly with 260bhp using the quoted curbside weight 
for the 3.0 75, gets the same bhp/ton figure as the current UberNasty 
BMW M5. Food for thought indeed <manic cackle>

Ivan (ivan@waverider.demon.co.uk)
Leamington, UK
Alfa 75 3.0V6 America

> Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 14:54:51 +0100
> From: "Nick Koleszar" <koleszar@netcomuk.co.uk>
> Subject: Shedload of questions about 75 mods/fixes

> 1. Fitting the newer 24v motor to a 75? What are costs/problems/parts/time
> needed?

Investigate what Larry Jr did to drop a 24v into a GTV6 at:
http://www.apedirect.com/larryjrprojects.html.  I talked with him a
while ago about doing the swap into my Milano/75, and he said that it
would be an easier job in the 75, because the throttle linkage is
similar.  The big stumbling block would be the headers.  Larry rolled
his own, because he had the equipment and was curious to see if he could
do it.  I have no idea how much it would be to have him roll another
set, but cash talks..  Another option he mentioned would be to cut and
weld Shankle headers to fit, but then you'd get all their leak
problems. 

Still, the idea has not yet left my head.  I keep dreaming about a
screaming 24 valver under my hood...

> 2. Fettling the gear-change linkage so it works. Rosejoints? Hours of
> adjustmant? Success rate?

The only way to improve the shifter linkage other than replacing all the
bushings and keeping everything tight would be a total reengineering
like this: http://www.gtv6.org/shift_survey.htm.  Again, bring cash.

> 3. Turbo/supercharger/nitrous conversions - which one is better? Silly
> money? Buy a turbo rally-car instead and save the differance?

In my humble opinion, turbocharging this car would be asking for
trouble, unless you can lay your hands on a mint Calloway setup, which
are harder to find than honest politicians.  Reeves Calloway is an
absolute genious, and had tons of R&D money to get it to work.  Keep in
mind that turbos generate a LOT of heat and add a LOT of complexity. 
I'd give it a miss.

Nitrous is best left to the dragstrip, IMO.  It's very easy to blow up a
good engine with a poor NO2 installation.  But it's been done.

> 4. Gearbox/donut strength - most people say you have to modify both to cope
> with much more than standard power. I have, however, had reliable info from
> someone who used to race an Alfetta with double the 75's power without
> severe problems. What's the truth? Do most people leave the old knackered
> parts in and then blame problems on increased power?

I believe that the stock gearbox would be up to the challenge after a
good rebuild, and sending the gears off to Merrit Carden
http://www.speedquest.com/gearlightning/ to be cross-drilled.

In case you haven't noticed, I've been contemplating pretty much the
same project as you.  My Milano is a wonderful car, but it's just
getting to the point where I don't want to subject it to being a daily
driver.

> Basically, I want a BMW M3/M5 but with Italian flair and that V6 noise and
> perhaps slightly tighter for track-days.
> 
> I know I'm an idiot. How big an idiot am I?

Tell ya what, Nick.  Send me a bag of cash, and I'll try out the project
on my Milano.  Then I'll write you and tell you what works.  :)

Peter
http://home.interpath.net/pbarrett

Vlad writes:" In Eu , to my knowledge there is no VIN number."

The factory build sheet on my 164 has a space headed "VIN CEE" andanother 
space headed "VIN USA". The "VIN CEE" heading has three subheadings: 
"COSTR.", "TIPO VEICOLO", and "TELAIO". Under "COSTR." on mine ZAR is 
entered; under "TELAIO" 6193546 is entered. The "VIN USA" heading has an 
entry EA43A9M6. Combining the three entries one gets ZAREA43A9M6193546, the 
number which appears on my title and on the windshield tag. The "Numerazione 
del telai" for the 164 in d'Amico & Tabucchi were specific to the type during 
1987 and 1988, but unified for all types after 1988; thus the Twin Spark 
(tipo 164 A2) start with ZAR164A20*00001011, the V6 (tipo 164 A) start with 
ZAR164A00.00001011, and from 1989 all started with ZAR164000*06110801 for the 
European (CEE) VIN number. For the USA, the 164000* is replaced by seven 
other characters, in the case of my car EA43A9M and in the case of Vlad's car 
EA33L9M.

Vlad writes "We could ask International Auto to interpret the numbers they 
have given."  ARI published, for Alfa Romeo dealers, a Bulletin on the 
Vehicle Identification Structure. The copy I have dates from september 1989, 
covering Spiders, coupe and Milanos but before the 164. According to this,
Z is the country of manufacture; AR is the manufacturer;
Fourth letter is the carline-
    A = GTV-6
    B = Spider
    D = Milano
    (E then should be 164, thus in all 164 USA VIN numbers)
Fifth letter is "configuration":
    A = 5 spd manual
    B = 3 spd auto
    C = 5 spd + passive seatbelt
(here a contadiction? My Automatic has an 'A' here.)
Sixth-seventh-eighth are equipment level: (for Gold, Silver, Graduate, etc)
Tenth is the year:
    H = 1987
    J = 1988
    K = 1989
    L = 1990
    M then = 1991
    N should be 1992
        etcetera.
(Ninth is a "check sum digit" which, when plugged into a computer 
verification program along with the rest, detects a phoney sequence).

A serious quibble I would have with Vlad's analysis concerns his 
interpretation that my car would have been a California version. The build 
sheet ("Ordine di Consegna") has the "destinazione" as Newark, and thecar 
was sold in North Carolina. I had understood that east coast and midwest cars 
came through Newark, (actually Englewood Cliffs) and west coast cars came 
through Los Angeles (actually El Segundo). This was certainly the case 
earlier, and it seems unlikely that California cars would have been shipped 
by truck or by rail from New Jersey, or would have been ordered for delivery 
to New Jersey.

Vlad ends: "maybe others want to check their combinations after "zarea" and 
let us know what they have." I would add another question: "maybe others want 
to check their Owner's Manuals and see if there are ANY Owner's Manuals 
marked "California Version" or "49 State Version". My guess is that there 
never were any.

Cheers,

John

--- In alfa75@egroups.com, theo.hodes@m... wrote:
> Nikos,
> 
> Do you have any expirience in the replacement of a 2.0 TS or 1.8 IE 
> engine in a 2.5 or 3 liter.
> The reason of asking this, is I think, there has a lot more to be 
> replaced, like the exhaust system, computer, cabeling, cooling, etc.
> I live in the Netherlands, and it is difficult to find a good 
engine 
> for a fair price, if I start calculating, I could almost buy a 
> complete V6. (The 75 3.0 is quit rare here, most of the 75's are 
1.8 
> and 2.0)
> If you have done this operation, can you tell us briefly what it
> meens 
> to do.
> 
> Thank, Theo

Hi Theo,
yes, just like Nikos said, I've converted my 1.8 Turbo to 3.0 V6.
It is not as hard as it probably seems.
>From what you wrote in the messages, I assume that you have a 1.8 
i.e. with 122 bhp, correct?
In this case you will need a lot of stuff in order to make a proper 
job.
1) MECHANICALS
---ENGINE
of course you will need an engine, with the loom and the 2 ECUs, one 
for injection and one for ignition and the fuel pump. It must be from 
a 75, as from a 164 will not fit. (164 engine has a lot of 
differences, intake manifold, different oil pan, exhaust manifolds 
etc).
---EXHAUST
Then you will need the exhaust, complete from front (from the exhaust 
manifolds onwards) to rear. Since your car is not "America" your 
exhaust tailpipe is at the centre of the rear bumper, and not on the 
right hand side, as on the Americas. So you will need the last 
section of the exhaust to be from a 'NON-AMERICA" TURBO, in order to 
fit your bumper as well as the correct diameter of the rest of the 
exhaust system of the 3.0 V6.
---DRIVESHAFT
You also need the main driveshaft of the 3.0 or the Turbo, since they 
are the same, but larger than yours, they have to cope with more 
power and torque.
---GEARBOX AND DIFFERENTIAL
You need the gearbox of the 3.0 as well, because it has a limited 
slip differential of 25%,  or from the Turbo, if you want a shorter 
final drive ratio, to make it quicker in acceleration but slower in 
top speed, or eventually from the Twin Spark, which is even shorter 
than the Turbo. Between the three, the only difference is in the 
final drive ratio, the gear ratios are exactly the same.
Below I give you the combinations of the 3.0 V6 engine with the 
various limited slip differentials available:
3.0 V6 gearbox/diff combination: Top speed 228 km/h but slow in 
acceleration.
Turbo gearbox/diff combination:   Top speed 216 km/h, to my opinion 
the best combination of performance and acceleration.
TwinSpark gearbox/diff combination: Top speed 205 km/h, a "dragster" 
in acceleration, but virtually no top speed.
You will also need the driveshafts of the 3.0 or the Turbo, which can 
cope with the extra torque, they are thicker and stronger. 
---ELECTRICALS
When you start up the 3.0 with your standard 1.8 rev counter, it will 
show you readings of 2.000 rpm at idle and go well into the red when 
you accelerate, which will of course not be correct. If you are good 
at fiddling with things, you will have to open up the instrument 
cluster and adjust the rev counter. There is a trimmer screw on the 
top of the rev counter which will help you adjust it with a small 
screwdriver. Apart from this, no other differences in the electricals.
---BRAKES You will certainly need to uprate the brakes. Brakes from 
either 3.0 V6, Turbo or Twin Spark will do. You will notice that on 
the above models you have 5 studs instead of 4 as on your car.
For the front, a pair of calipers and discs and hubs should do, so 
you wouldn't have to replace the whole front suspension.
The rear brakes are identical to the ones on your car, so don't 
change anything there. But you would probably have to replace the 
rear axle (it has a delta-shape Ä) or if you could just find a
pair 
of second hand rear 5-stud hubs off again 3.0 or Turbo or TwinSpark, 
it would do just fine.
The brake servo unit from the 3.0  is a good addition, although not 
absolutely necessary.
---SUSPENSION  The only difference in the suspension is in the two 
bars which are longitudinally places on the bottom of the floorpan 
and the front and rear anti-roll bars. As for rear springs, I have 
retained the ones from the Turbo, since they are stiffer than 
standard 3.0 V6 ones.
---FUEL TANK  The fuel tank of the 3.0 V6 America is inside the 
luggage compartment and is larger than the one in your car. You can 
still keep your tank if you don't want a smaller luggage space, no 
problems there.
If you need to ask me anything, feel free to do so, I'll be glad to 
help you with anything I can.

Danny 

A couple of weeks ago, I posted my generally favorable view of the
CarDisk CD along with a few rough spots. One of these was difficulty installing
on my new Win2K machine. Below is the fix. Thanks Bill Fannon-
Mike Grace
74 GTV
Santa Barbara

>From: Bill_Fannon/ILLex@ilww.com
>X-Lotus-FromDomain: CHW
>To: mgrace@toyon.com
>Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 15:56:28 -0400
>Subject: Car Disk CD.
>
>
>
>The Cardisk CD application will work in WinNT and W2k if you install it in
>a c:\windows directory.  (Create a c:\windows directory).  The CD needs to
>be able to copy it's files to this directory instead of c:\winnt.  Won't
>work if you change the installation path.  Give this a try.  Bill Fannon
-- 

In AD7-2296 Naoki Iwamoto writes "In preparing import documentation for my 
Milano into Japan, my Japanese agent is asking me to let him know "chassis 
number" and "tipo".  He insists that the chassis number should start from 
"ZAR1620000" and my car should have this number somewhere in the trunk. 
However the chassis number inscripted in the trunk of my car says "54 
1611602".  I am sure that I am looking at the right place in the trunk 
because the onwers manual specifies the the place.  Is there any other place 
in the trunk that I should look for a chassis number?   Also, my car does not 
seem to have "tipo" number anywhere.  The agent says that I should have this 
information inside the front hood and it should say 162B30...but I can't find 
it.  Any clue?"

Limited partial clue, perhaps, if it is a Milano and not a 75, and if the 
paperwork his Japanese agent is using is expecting a 75, not a Milano. 

I have a Milano AND a 164, and the 164 came with a slip of paper- the "build 
sheet" used in the factory for assembly record, labeled an "Ordine di 
Concegna". The data on it included a block labeled "VIN CEE" with three
sub-blocks labeled "COSTR.", "TIPO VEICOLO" and "TELAIO". There is another 
data-block labeled "VIN USA". The "TIPO VEICOLO" block is left blank, and the 
"VIN" which appears on the metal tab in the windshield and on all of the 
legal papers connected to the car consists of the "COSTR" letters (ZAR for 
both cars, of course) plus the "VIN USA" (a string of eight letters and 
numbers, EA43A9M6 on the 164 and DA1164H1 on the Milano) plus six more 
numbers on the Milano, seven on the 164. The numbers which are stamped on the 
trunk floor of the Milano (called "Body number", not chassis number, in the 
Owner's Manual) have no connection with the VIN.

According to the table of chassis numbers listed in d'Amico & Tabucchi the 
chassis number for all 75s start with either ZAR162000, (as his agent wanted) 
or ZAR162B00, or ZAR161000, with a few minor variations (20, 60, 30) at the 
end of that string, but none have anything like the ZARDA of my "VIN USA" 
version. The 162B30 his agent wants would be correct for a 1986 or 1987 2.5 
liter 75 (ZAR162B30*00001011 and up), but it does not appear on my 1987 2.5 
Milano. If Naoki Iwamoto's car is a Milano, and not a 75, and if his agent 
has information pertaining to the rest of the world but not the USA 
deviation, he will have to find a way to help the agent to understand the 
effect our peculiar laws have on these numbers.

Good luck - -

John H. 

In AD7-2540 Brad Porter asks help in identifying a Milano bearing the
VIN:
ZARDA1166H1051036.

It is a 1987 Gold.

Z is Italy
AR is the manufacturer
D is Milano (A is GTV-6, B is Spider)
A is 5-speed (B is automatic, C is 5-speed w/passive belt)
116 is equipment level (but in 1990 the three digits became two + 1
letter)
The equipment-level cluster went along with the gearbox:
DA 114 is Silver
DA 116 is Gold
DA 124 is Green
DA 136 is Platinum
DB 140 is Gold automatic
DB 142 is Platinum automatic
BA 556 is Quadrifoglio
BA 558 is Veloce
BA 564 is Graduate
BA 541 is Veloce again, don't ask me why
BC 570 is Quadrifoglio w/passive belt
BC 576 is Veloce w/passive belt 
BA 12C is Graduate in '90-> system
BA 12G is Veloce in '90-> system 
BC 12T is Quadrifoglio in '90-> system 
Next digit is a "check sum digit" which, with Buck Rogers Decoder Ring,
enables the geheimo to detect spurious VIN numbers
The "H" is year: 
H = 1987
J = 1988
K = 1989
L = 1990
USW
The following "1" is (was) Arese, "2" Naples (Pomigliano d'Arco), don't
know about Turin.

The rest is serial number; this was the 1,025 th Milano built. 75s for
other countries had several different series of numbers.

Cheers

John

More help for John, this time SZ/RZ numbers, added Dec 4,05

The SZ and RZ serial numbers, according to the book, are:

SZ 1989:
ZAR162000*03000001 to ZAR162000*03000011

SZ 1990:
ZAR162000*03000012 to ZAR162000*03000300

SZ 1991:
ZAR162000*03000301 to ZAR162000*03001035

RZ 1992:
ZAR162000*03002001 to ZAR162000*03002050

RZ 1993:
ZAR162000*03002051 to ZAR162000*03002241

Note that none are exactly the  ZARDA format, but neither were the 75 or
90. ZAR  started in 1980, followed by the tipo number:ZAR116 for Alfettas
and GTV6, ZAS901 for the Alfasud (which was never an Alfa Romeo), ZAR 119
for the Sei, ZAR920 for the Arna, ZAR905 and ZAR907 for the 33, ZAR162 for
the 90, 75, SZ and RZ, ZAR164 for the 164, and onward. The "DA" of ZARDA
was part of a US DOT code which was superimposed on the EEC code. Which
other countries used the US DOT code I don't know.

Cheers, and keep the faith - - 

John

In AD8-0007 Luca asks "can you also provide production numbers for the other version of the 75 (Twin spark, 1.8 turbo etc..) ?"

 As with the Milanos what I can dig out of d'Amico & Tabucchi is limited by
the chassis numbers being undifferentiated from some point in 1988 on.

 By far the most common 75 was the 1.6, with 127,498, followed by the 1.8
(both carbureted and Turbo) with 102,543 and the 2.0 (both carbureted
single-plug and injected Twin Spark) with 77,132, then the diesels with
47,962.

 The farthest I can break it down beyond that is:

 For the 1.6, 65,689 carbureted, most of the rest probably the injected which
were introduced in 1989.

 For the 1.8, 41,059 carbureted through 1988; 5781 Turbo in 1986 and 1987,
3290 Turbo America in 1987 and 1988, 510 Turbo Evoluzione in 1987; for the remaining 52,000 cars your guess is a good as mine (if not better) but my
guess, FWIW, is that the ratios would stay about the same; no increase in the
Turbo proportions, perhaps a decrease, as the Twin Spark would have been
eating into the 1.8 Turbo market.

 For the 2.0, 18,400 carbureted cars 1985 to 1988 and 36,474 Twin Sparks in 1987 and 1988, with the remaining 18,000 presumably all Twin Sparks.

 I doubt anyone wants a breakdown on the diesels - -

 John H.

From: "John Hertzman" <johnhertzman@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Milano Production numbers

In AD7-3078 Tim Timko asks for "production numbers or numbers of Milanos
imported to the U.S.?I am looking to see how many were imported just like mine in 1988". Later he seems to be narrowing the question to Platinums, and narrowing further to options.

 The numbers I have (in d'Amico & Tabucchi) do not differentiate between
Silver, Gold,and Platinum. The options-list question is easier; in '87 there
were no options on the Platinum, and in 1988 the only options were the
sunroof (which was standard in 1987) and cruise control (which was not available in 1987). The other conspicuous variable was the automatic gearbox and self-leveling suspension, but both were standard on the platinum in 1988 (when no manual transmission was available on the Platinum) and neither was available in 1987 when the five-speed was standard.

 In round numbers there were about 3,100 2.5 Milanos built in 1986 (1987
MY cars) 1,000 more in 1987 and 1988, under 900 three liters in 1987 and
1988, and 4,500 other V6s through 1991 for the rest of the world for a total
of 9,500 V6 75s out of the 364,500 75s built.

 John H.

From: "John Hertzman" <johnhertzman@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Milano/75 production numbers

Joe Elliott asks for clarification on the number of 3.0 75/Milanos built.

 A couple of things make it hard to draw a reasonable inference. D'Amico
& Tabucchi, which is the only source I have, does say (in the end-of-book
summary listing of "Cars Produced") that there were 9,526 V6 75s (all
types, 2.5 and 3.0, Euro and Milano) built 1986-1991. They also identify,
in the main body, four V6 types, one or two of which include the Milano 
Verdes; the four types are the Alfa 75 2.5 V6 Quadrifoglio Verde tipo 
162B3, from 1996; the Alfa 75 3.0i V6 America tipo 162B6, from 1987; the 
Alfa 75 3.0i V6 America tipo 162BA, from 1988; and the 75 3.0i V6 Europa 
tipo 162B6B, from 1989. (Note the word "Alfa" was dropped from the model 
name in 1989, as it had been for the 33 from 1988.)

 For extrapolation of type production numbers from chassis numbers, each
type (1.6, 1.8, 2.0, etc) had its own serial number groups until some point
in 1988 when all 75s started sharing numbers common to all models rather 
than specific to various types. (Thank you, Fiat.) Thus from the serial 
numbers one should be able to tell how many 2.5s were built in 1986 and 
1987 and how many 3.0s were built in 1987 and that at least certain numbers 
of each were built in 1988, but one cannot tell how many of a particular 
type were built 1988 through 1991.

 The serial numbers that they give for 3.0 Milanos for 1987 and much,
but not necessarily all, of 1988 cover 885 cars. (The 883 number resulted 
from incorrectly subtracting beginning numbers from ending numbers: 1 to 
10 is 10, not 9. Sorry.).

 A 'small' problem is that the numbers of cars of the various types built,
according to the serial number ranges they give, exceed the total number
of cars built that they give. That problem may be compounded by typos or
other errors in their listings, transcribing errors on my part, adding or
subtracting errors on my part, or who knows what. Note that in earlier
cases not all serial numbers in a range were necessarily built, and this 
may apply here. Meanwhile it is late, tomorrow is another day, if you 
want better answers please find a copy of d'Amico & Tabucchi and have at 
it.

 Chassis numbers, omitting the type prefixes (ZAR162B6, etc) are:

 2.5 Euro

1986   00001011 to 00003113 =   2103 cars

1987   00003114 to 00003142 =     29 cars

 2.5 Euro Cat

1987   00020601 to 00020800 =    200 cars

 3.0 Euro

1987   00001011 to 00002000 =    990 cars

1988   00002001 to 00002850 =    850 cars

 3.0 Euro Cat

1987   00040011 to 00041100 =   1090 cars

1988   00041101 to 00042100 =   1000 cars

 2.5 Milano

1986   00050011 to 00053111 =   3101 cars

1986   02225011 to 02225013 =      3 cars

1987   00053113 to 00053300 =    188 cars

1987   02250511 to 02250899 =    389 cars

1987   02225015 to 02225028 =     14 cars

1987   00055001 to 00055040 =     40 cars

1988   02250900 to 02251350 =    451 cars

1988   02225029 to 02225300 =    272 cars

1988   00055041 to 00055120 =     80 cars

 3.0 Milano

1987   00051011 to 00051550 =    540 cars

1988   00051556 to 00051900 =    345 cars

 Subtotals:

Euro 2.5     2332

Euro 3.0     3930

Milano 2.5   4538

Milano 3.0    885

 11,685 total 1986 to not all of 1988 rather than the 9,526 1986-1991
given in
the "Cars Produced" section.

 Enjoy the game,

 John

In AD8-0008 Carson Damm writes that his 1987 Platinum H1025850, build date December 1986, does not fit the numbers given in
d’Amico & Tabucchi, and that Elvira Ruocco says his car does not exist; he wonders if the factory could have transposed the two
and the five, stamping 25850 on car 52850, which would fit the published numbers. An optional transposition with the same result
would be if the error was on the factory’s paper rather than on the car 

 My own 1987 Platinum is H1026474, 625 cars newer than his, (but a month older: build date 11/86) and also doesn’t fit but would
be yet another doesn’t-fit number, 62474, if the numbers were switched in the way he suggests.

 The published 1987 beginning number immediately follows the published 1986 ending number, which further complicates any
simple explanation. I have never asked Elvira Ruocco about my car, as I bought it new and the two things she can tell, color and first
owner of record, were not in question.

 The two 1988 Platinums of the recent correspondence are Tim Timko’s, J1225087, and Bob Cess’ J1225046, another close pairing
which also does not correspond to the d’Amico & Tabucchi listings.

 I already knew that my wife’s 164 does match d’Amico & Tabucchi’s 164 numbers, so I wondered if there might have been some
change in the system of numbering US cars between 1988 and 1991. The only evidence I have seems otherwise; my 1984 GTV6
numbers do match d’Amico & Tabucchi’s, leaving the Milanos as the exception between earlier and later proper numbers.

 So, we are back to square one. I might blame d’Amico & Tabucchi if the only discrepancy was between the cars and the published
numbers, but Elvira Ruocco’s testimony that Carson Damm’s car doesn't exist indicates that the discrepancy is between the cars
and the factory records, letting d’Amico & Tabucchi off the hook.

 Enjoy yours, if it is real-

 John H.

Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 20:35:45 +0200
   From: "Gianluca Calderini" <giancald@libero.it>
Subject: 75's production

Ciao, hi, hello, hallo and so on...

I've read about the interest on the 75 production's percentages.
Following are the exact values, taken from " le Alfa Romeo di
produzione" by
D'Amico & Tabucchi:

-75 1.6 carb/ie                  34.8%
-75 1.8 carb/ie + turbo      28.1%
-75 2.0 carb+TS               21.2%
-75 2.5/3.0                         3.0%
-75 TD 2.0/2.4                  13.0%
-- 

there are two searchs in place now.

there is a google search linked at

http://www.digest.net/alfa/archive/

that searches the entire digest.net site, alfas and other cars as
well, and isn't guaranteed to be current.

there is a more focused search, the first link to which is at

http://www.digest.net/alfa/archive/v8/

which searches a specific component of the archives. i will be
broadening this search to those components of the archives which are
in web form (currently v6, the very incomplete v7, and the new v8.)

a future project may convert the digest format archives into web
archives similar to those already in existence, but that's another
project.

richard

Can I try to make clear the discussion about the limited editions?

I hope yes.

I have many official items about the Limited editions.

Starting from the original Alfa Romeo press release, I can affirm 
that:

never built a twin spark 2 liter turbo. The only turbo (not diesel) 
engine produced and fitted on the Alfa 75 is the 1800 with 155 and 
165 CV CEE of power (this last for the 1990 - 1991 QUadrifoglio 
Verde). Then there was the special engine of the Evoluzione, but this 
is another story.

the Limited edition TS and TB (or, as named by the factory, A.S.N.= 
Allestimento Serie Numerata) were illustrated on the n.° 33 (July - 
September) of the italian issue of the "Il QUadrifoglio" (official 
Alfa Romeo magazine) with pics taken in the Balocco private 
racetrack. The pics you can see in the "files" section are mine and 
taken from this magazine. The same pics were also fitted on the 
italian motoring magazine "Quattroruote".

Reading the Press release you can know that: as standard equipment 
there were the light alloy wheels (14") similar on the SZ design; the 
rear "glass" in the body colour and the fog lamps. Then, interior, 
there were Recaro seats (the same of the "milano 3.0 Q.V." for the 
USA, but without the electric adjustments and without the driver 
heated seat), leather steering wheel and leather gear knob. Near 
the "alfa 75" sign on the dashboard's trim there was a silver little 
plate with the numer (progressive) of the car. WERE BUILT 3.000 TWIN 
SPARK LIMITED and only 1.500 TURBO QUADRIFOGLIO VERDE LIMITED. 

The limited edition were not available in all the markets: for 
example, reading from the press releas, it seems that the turbo was 
available only in Italy and France; the twin spark was available in 
UK, Switzerland, Belgio and Spain. A little different is the TS ASN 
for the Germany: as standard equipment there was also the electric 
sun roof. 

There were 5 colour paint available: for all alfa red, black, light 
grey (methallic), balck (methallic) and, for the only TS, white.

In Italy the ASN were sold at the same price of the "standard" TS and 
TB Q.V.

If you need pics, please ask.

L.O.

'89 75 Turbo America   Km  60.900
'82 Alfetta 2.0 sedan  km 153.000

There is a weird casting for the sump.  There are also some
other challenges.
 Assuming you are putting the 164 engine in place of a 2.5, you 
need the following parts(at least):

- --Oil pan and pump from 2.5
- --Distributor from 2.5
- --Plenum from 2.5 (or modified 164 for better performance)
- --"Modified to 3.0" 2.5l ECU from Kirshstein/DiMatteo (or whole
     motronic setup from 164)
- --Same with Spark Box
- --Milano 3.0 Flywheel and starter (I'm told the 164 one doesn't fit)

  Due to the transverse mounting of the 164 engine, you can't just
drop it in the Milano.  The distributor, for example, will not fit 
against the firewall.  The solution to this is to use the one from 
the 2.5 and tap the block to mount it in the appropriate location.  There are similar
problems with AC compressors, but who needs AC?  Just Kidding about that, but
really there is a problem mounting the AC compressor properly.  The engine
mounts don't quite fit just right.  A few people have told me they made adaptor
plates to make it work, others just stretched the rubber about 2 millimeters.
Supposedly neither method has had any problems.  The funny oil pan in
the 164 has to go.  I'm told the 2.5 will generally bolt right on, though some
people actually had to tap the bottom of the 164 engine block to bolt theirs
on. Maybe this is a difference between GTV6 and Milano 2.5 engines?  The
people who I have asked about this are generally very technically savvy.  I'm
guessing this is not something you should tackle if you don't know what
you are doing.  If you really want to do it, I suggest getting on www.gtv6.org
and going to the Forum.  There is an entire topic section called "Installing
a 164 3.0 Liter".  That is the place to start.
 If you don't do anything silly to the engine(like turbo a 3.0 Liter), you
can just use your regular transaxle and drive shaft.  There is a guy here
locally with a Turbo'ed Alfetta Sprint Veloce 4cyl which does about 300Hp on the
stock gearbox and donuts (guibos).

Karl